Getting up at 5:45 AM was easy: I was already awake! I just had to wait for Dan’s noisy alarm to go off and I got up and ready pretty quickly.
Our plan this morning, after Dan had the motel decaf coffee, was to head south for a bit. So off we went. Into the wind.
And boy was it windy! Enough that I could feel it blowing the car around and opening my door when we stopped was harder than usual.
We stopped in a few places before turning around in Independence. I didn’t bother with the Fuji, but I did use the iPhone. Gotta get what I call my record shots!
When we arrived back at the motel Dan brought our food container upstairs and we had breakfast in our room: granola with bananas in milk, and coffee from his aeropress. Now normally we like to set out camp chairs in some remote spot and enjoy breakfast out in nature, but the wind nixed that idea. The room sufficed. We also had time for showers before checkout, which was handy.
Following checkout we drove north, taking detours here and there. We went to Convict Lake, thinking it might be a spot for lunch, but the lack of picnic tables, along with the chill, sent us on our way.
Eventually we ended up in Mammoth, and we did have lunch right by the car. Then I took a few photos of the view.
Next up, as far as photos are concerned, was June Lake. There we’d find more aspen color, along with some cigar smoking fishermen.
At that point we went to our motel to check in.
Hello, Lee Vining!
Our room and the view from our room:
After a very short stop in our room we headed to Conway Summit. Oops! Too early. We sat for a while and finally the light was right. Dan suggested I use his long lens on my Fuji just to try it out. I hope to see I get a few usable things once we get home and I see them on my computer screen. Silly me, though, neglected the iPhone for a while. Ah, well … I did finally remember I should take some shots. After the light went … but the iPhone sort of adjusts for that a bit.
Dan, being more patient, did more shooting after I ran out of steam. Once he finished off we went, back to Lee Vining. We dropped things off at our motel and walked to a nearby place where we’d eaten in the past. Hmm. While the lodge was still open, the restaurant was closed. There was only one other option in town if we wanted to walk, so we had no choice but to eat at Nicely’s. Now that spot is sort of an old fashioned restaurant, serving too much food that is edible but not remarkable. Whatever. It was dinner and we were happy to have a place near the motel. (It was, in fact, directly across the street!) I ordered the turkey roast which began with a salad. It was … um … satisfactory. But no complaints from me. (And no, I couldn’t finish it all, nor should I have!)
Back in our room we turned on the space heater — there is no built in heater and Lee Vining gets pretty darn cold. The heater works quite well and I’m grateful for it.
Tomorrow is another day. (You can quote me on that.) Time will tell where we go and what we see. You’ll know sometime tomorrow night!
We woke far too early for my taste, but not as early as sometimes for Mr. Photographer, so I will attempt to be grateful. Normally, at home, my watch buzzes me awake at 6:45 (unless I tell the darn thing to snooze), but this morning it was 5:30. After a restless sleep (I think I was awake five times if not more) I actually woke rather easily, so I will attempt to not complain.
Dan had the exciting motel decaf coffee and I started this blog after getting packed for the day and dressing warmly.
After leaving the motel, Dan graciously did the Starbucks drive-through, so his wife could have some better coffee. Notice I didn’t say the best coffee! But Starbucks is definitely better than motel coffee.
Then we drove up to a spot where we went off the main road, through a neighborhood with some rather nice looking homes, and Dan had to get out to open gates a couple of times to get us through. It looks like the neighborhood has added these gates to slow people down, which I totally understand. The last thing they probably like are all the hotshots driving through very fast.
We reached our destination of the moment, Dan got out his tripod and camera and all, and I got out my iPhone and my little Fuji, He patiently waited outside for the sunrise, and I patiently sat in the car for a bit to stay warm. It wasn’t tremendously cold out, but it was cold enough. A bit different than down in Bishop, where it was not quite so chilly.
Eventually, I did get out, and took photos with both the iPhone and the Fuji. Lo and behold, we were near Mount Emerson so of course I had no choice but to shoot that. It’s so interesting to see the difference in color as the sun rises.
After returning to sit back in the car a bit longer to get warmed up, I looked outside and the mountains had a lot more light on them. It was incredibly beautiful with the clouds. Just constantly changing.
Dan continued his patient waiting for some trees to get some light on them. He did come back to the car at one point for gloves, which meant I could tease him about not dressing warmly. Because I’m nice that way.
As I was working on this blog, sitting in the almost warm car, I heard a tap on the window. Dan pointed the opposite direction of “my” mountain, and wow! Such a beautiful sight.
I did a bit more photography of flora with my Fuji, and then got back into the car to wait for Dan.
I did hop out once, just to show the difference in the mountains after the sun had risen.
My mountain and me. (It’s to my left, the viewer’s right, and clouds are taking it over.)
We continued on the dirt road for a bit, stopping maybe twice.
Next up was South Fork for a bit to see the aspens. Dan pointed out places where there had been a lot of color just last week but was gone now. When we stopped at a usual spot we go to any time we are here we saw another photographer who greeted Dan: apparently they met in Yosemite a few months back. Small world.
While the color wasn’t as it has been in the past, it was lovely and we shot for a bit. I also used Dan’s better macro lens for a few images and I hope to find, once we are home, that I managed to get something good from that.
The sign with worms included cracks me up. Below that there was a sign that said something about it being the best tackle shop in the canyon. Thing is, it’s the only one there. Heh.
Then it was on to North Lake. I had to look to my left to avoid seeing the drop off at a few points. Funny, though — when I take a photo of it (see below) it doesn’t seem so bad.
The color in the area was nearly all gone, but there were still some things to shoot and not every bit of color had fallen. Besides, I just love being out in this part of the world so color or not I find it beautiful.
Following North Lake it was time for breakfast, so we headed to Cardinal Village, and enjoyed a whole lot of food. No lunch today!
We spent a good amount of time at our table, but eventually got back in the car and went to a spot where Dan knew he’d get a good enough signal, and we sat for a bit, and restless me got out and took a few shots just because.
Then we opted to go back to the motel, allowing Dan to get his new photos on to his iPad and I could then write more on this blog and get photos loaded. (It appears that during the day, when most people are away, the photos load quicker. Well, most of the time, anyway. I did run into some glitches.)
I may or may not have taken a nap.
When we decided to go back out we went back up to the road to South Lake. There were a few stops as we drove. Dan shot more than I did, but I did a bit with the camera and iPhone. The latter you see here, of course. All of the below is on our way to South Lake. (But no, I didn’t take a photo of the lake itself.)
Then, to keep with tradition, we drove to Lake Sabrina. I only took one record shot.
We ended up talking with a young woman for a short time: she was on her own, driving what looked to me like a very nice van, and seemed happy to get to chat a bit.
Then it was down to get gas (over $100 to fill the tank. Yikes!), back to the motel to unload gear, and off to the Mexican restaurant we wanted to revisit.
Ah, Astorga’s! We have fond memories of the place, but tonight was a comedy of errors. The young waiter, shy and mumbling, took our drink order. Later he came to take our food orders. Then he had to return to ask Dan what kind of beans he wanted. Then he came back to ask if I wanted the enchlidas suizas on their own or with beans and rice. Finally, he came back to ask what our drink order was! Poor guy … surely he must be new? Our drink order arrived, and shortly after so did my meal. BUT a bit after that a different server came out. First she talked to another couple and I heard her apologizing: they had brought the woman’s mean to me! (We had ordered the same thing.) Then she came to our table to explain that Dan’s meal would be a bit later because of the mistake in giving me someone else’s order. Well, we were fine with it, but I do have a feeling we might skip Astorga’s if we return. Time will tell. The food was just fine, so I can’t complain about that. They just seem to have rough edges.
Back to our motel we went, where the parking lot was nearly full. This looks to be a popular place.
Tomorrow is moving day, but odds are we will first wake up at some non-patty time for a bit of photography before we pack up and leave Bishop.
We are on a short trip to see the colors in the Eastern Sierra. Today was mainly getting to our current location, although we stopped a couple of times. The drive was sort of uneventful, but there were a few bad drivers out there and I was glad I wasn’t driving! (So bad we could have had a serious problem … good thing Dan was quick to respond!)
I was also happy not to be the one to drive over Sonora Pass, but I wish I could have sat in the back behind Dan so I could avoid seeing the drop to my right! Yes, typical me — I did a bit of my little whimpering noises I make when I’m scared. I can’t seem to help myself!
The wind was rather incredible … one time nearly pushing our huge 4Runner to the side of the road! I took a few shots on our drive since I do like to have a record of the drive. Note the gas prices (if you can see that second photo well enough) in Bridgeport!
We took one side trip before getting to the motel, ending at a place we had parked some years back to start a backpack trip. Ah, memories! (The last photo above is from the parking lot there.)
And then there we were in our little motel in Bishop, California. Nothing fancy, and nothing costly either. BUT hey, there’s a (not very good) canvas photo on our wall and Dan knew the image immediately: it’s of Mount Emerson! How ‘bout that. Seems like this room should be free for me, you know? (If you don’t know why I write that … well, my birth name was Emerson.)
After getting situated we walked to find dinner. Bishop isn’t exactly full of fine dining restaurants (hint: there is no “fine dining), but we really didn’t want or need to spend a ton of money. (Knowing we have an upcoming Big Trip I am hoping to keep this trip rather inexpensive.) We walked past a number of places, and finally stopped at the sushi place we’d been at in the past that was surprisingly good. Well … never mind them for tonight or tomorrow: they are closed on Sunday and Monday. So back we walked.
I had read about some place at a bowling alley and spotted that. Really? A bowling alley? Well, yes. The dining room isn’t in the room with the lanes, nor is it in the room with pool tables. We were walked toward the end of the building and there we were. Time to eat.
While sitting there we ended up chatting with a nice couple right near us from Southern California, and a little bit with a Canadian couple behind us as well. You just never know when you might run in to friendly people! Seems to be common all over the world — or at least the parts of the world where we’ve been so far.
We ordered burgers (Dan a “real” burger, and I had a veggie one.) Now this will come as a great shock to anyone reading … unless you’ve read my posts in the past, that is.
I ATE TOO MUCH!
I guess I will never learn. But honestly, I only ordered the veggie burger and it came with fries. It was just far too much food for me. (I think I will skip weighing myself for a week or so after this little adventure of ours.)
Oh … and no food photos. Use your imaginations. 😉
Tomorrow is an early rising day. Not my favorite thing to do, but I will survive. My photographer husband knows the best time to head out!
It was a breakfast and packing morning. That all goes rather quickly, of course. First, in fact, we just spent a leisurely amount of time in our room.
This hotel is fine for what it is, but it’s a bit of a stretch to read that we are in a “luxury room”. The tub casing (if that’s what one calls the plastic siding) has cracks. The bathroom floor is in dire need of repair. The curtain is old and saggy. The lampshades have holes in them. The heater on the wall doesn’t work so they have a portable one in the room. The chairs in the lounges are rather old and the armchairs have rips in them. Some of the dining tables had two salt shakers and some had two for pepper. That one just made my laugh. In some ways it’s just rather charming in that “my this is an old place!” way, but I wonder how long they can last without really working on the place. Still, I love the location and the staff (all two of them that we’ve seen) are friendly. (The young woman, who has, I believe, an accent that would suggest she’s from England, said she arrived two weeks ago when they opened for the season. In other words, they don’t function year round.)
In any case, it was time to say goodbye. We have only one more stop in beautiful Scotland and it’s a place I visited back in the summer of 1974!
Breakfast occurred. As breakfast seems to do. Dan had more salmon and scrambled eggs and I opted for porridge. I do love oatmeal, but I think I like the word porridge even more. Yep. I’m silly that way.
After breakfast we pulled a few things out of the car so we could pack up, and then up to our room for showers and getting all things ready.
Then it was time to check out and head south.
I never wrote about “the wave”. Or I guess I should say “the waves”! When you are at a passing place, nearly always everybody acknowledges the other driver. Either it’s a wave, two fingers up like a peace sign, a thumbs up, or just one finger up on the steering wheel. Not the middle finger mind you! With cyclists and motorcycles, you get a head nod. It’s all so polite. Now, if you make a blunder and pull to the right instead of the left, you might get an angry person, signaling that you should go left, but that’s rare.
(Side note: I’m reading what I wrote above and instead of “blunder” I typed “blender”. Please know I rarely do a good job proof reading. I hate to think of how many silly typos I have. Just laugh at me and move on. That’s what I do.)
And signs … there’s of course the passing place, but we’ve also seen warning signs for sheep, cows, deer, red squirrels, and today a new one: OTTERS. Yep. Really. I should have taken a photo. There was also an “observe speed limit” sign today. Hmmm. Does that mean we could have ignored it up until that sign? I wonder.
When we left the Altnaharra Hotel we started out in the same road we were on yesterday when we returned. Goodbye dear hotel. You were a bit of a puzzlement in some ways, but I enjoyed our stay!
As we began the drive we encountered “not rain” again. but of course!
We stopped at a sign I had noticed yesterday so I snapped a couple photos.
This time, as well, we stopped at the church we drove by yesterday. First I shot the monument and then we entered the church. Dan opened the inner church door but shut it because he said someone was doing something inside. Right after that a woman poked her head out and said to come on in: her husband was photographing the church because it was soon to be sold. (You can see his work here.) We had a nice chat with them, and learned a bit more about the Free Church of Scotland. I still need to read up on it some more, but it sounded like a stricter sect from what they explained.
For the first time we saw some peat sitting out in a field.
This will be the last day we see these signs that appear so frequently. I thought they should be changed to “Patty’s Place” and Dan came up with a lot of other possibilities. Alas, I think they will stay as they are.
We’ve seen so many beautiful stone fences, but this one was a first for us.
The couple at the church told us we might see some red deer on our drive. And there they were.
In about an hour and a half we got to the village of Helmsdale. It seemed a good time to get lunch, since our dinner reservation was going to be rather late after our train ride. So yeah, it really was lunch rather than “not lunch”. And it was tasty! We ate at a place called “Thyme and Plaice”. Get it? Very yummy!
All along our drive the Scottish broom has been pretty amazing. We think of it as a weed in our area, but in Scotland I’m assuming it’s loved. Sometimes it’s on both sides of the road and you can’t see anything but road and broom and in those cases the car sometimes gets brighter from all that yellow. It covers some hills and is really lovely. But then we ran across fields of a most amazing yellow. I never managed to get a great close up of a field, but really it was just beautiful! I am pretty certain this is canola, also called rapeseed. I’ve read we might see more of it in another area we’ll see in a few weeks. We shall see.
And then we reached our first destination. Hello Inverness. Dan had to fill the car with petrol, and we returned it. Then Enterprise drove us to the train station (no charge … super!). We rearranged a few things in our luggage so we will have what things we will want at our disposal on the train, and entered the Ness & Thistle to kill over an hour of time. Easy. Order a pint, pull out the iPads, and get writing!
But before I go any further again I must say Dan did a stellar job of driving. He had suggested, on day one, that I eventually give it a go, but he didn’t bring that up again and I’m glad. I really prefer to drive on the RIGHT side of the road! (But he kept up his mantra, “Left is right and right is wrong!” For the most part that worked. Until today, when twice (at least) he attempted to get in the car on the passenger side. We figured he was just reverting, knowing he was done with the car soon!
So cheers to Dan!
Our train was due to leave at 17:20. It’s not a terrifically long ride — we should arrive at 19:36. I’m really hoping it is on time … I know we’ll be rather weary! Meanwhile we sat and waiting, very slowly nursing our drinks.
And then it was a bit after 17:00 so out we went to find carriage A. One never knows: will that be the closest car or the last one? We’ve been known to guess wrong and have to race to the far end of the track! As it turned out, it was the first coach, so easy-peasy. And there were very few in our first class car. Why first class? I guess it must have been cheap enough to warrant that. I believe the rest of our trains are “standard” and that’s just fine with us. But there we were, in row 7. I think maybe the car started out with about eight or nine people. Eventually it dwindled down to just three of us.
The ride was pleasant, even while we had to stop and wait for a late train before leaving one station. Not a worry for us since this train took us to our destination. (Later we heard that others, who were connecting to Glasgow, were going to be fine because they held that train for them.) I took just a few photos.
And then we arrived.
Hello Aberdeen!
You might wonder why we came here for all of two nights and only one full day. Well … I was here in August of 1974 for the International Youth Orchestra Festival (or whatever it was called) and I just wanted to revisit the spot. I wonder if I”ll recognize even one thing here. I was here on August 8, 1974, in fact. We woke up in the middle of the night to hear an announcement over the television. Hmmm … now what might that have been?!
We grabbed a taxi and got to the Chester Hotel. Wow!
This hotel is so very different than our last one. It’s a fabulous building or, rather, three or four buildings that are connected. The room is lovely. (But still you can see a bit of bathroom door damage … that seems to be a constant in hotels.) I’m even wondering if I somehow saw the wrong price on this place as it seems so much better than the other places we’ve stayed. If so — well — too late now!
And look at our sweet shortbread wrappers!
We ate dinner at the restaurant here at the hotel, since we got in rather late. It was delicious and too costly, but what is one to do at 8:30 in the evening? So whatever. Dan had roasted Cod and I had butter chicken. Yum!
Now it is late and we are tired. We haven’t planned a thing for tomorrow and I suspect we’ll just do some ambling. I’m not sure I’ll figure out where the youth orchestras all met up, and while I believe we stayed in dorms somewhere I’ve no clue where that might be. It was, after all, a long time ago.
7:30 and time to rise ‘n shine for our 8:00 breakfast here at the Altnaharra Hotel. Sleep was fine, but I’m still adjusting to the “king size” beds here — they are a tad smaller than ours at home. You’d think kings would be larger in a country with a king. Or not.
Breakfast was nearly gone when I realized I hadn’t done my photo. Why a photo? Well, it helps me remember where we were when I go back and reminisce about a trip. So here, have the remains … and my driver as well. I’ve decided he’s Driver Dan and I’m Whimpering Wife. At least for the next couple of days. I’ll just bet he’ll be happy to be back to trains and planes!
On most of the walls in this place are prints of wildlife, fishermen, highland scenes and the like. But on this one wall …!
We got whatever we needed (cameras, and warm clothes) and went on our way. First we had to retrace our final drive from yesterday, which took over an hour. (Closer to 1 1/2 hours I think.)
Here are shots up to our first destination:
I’ve written before about the passing places. Today there was one spot where some cars were stopped and no one was moving at first. Finally the red cars started to back up. But it took a while. Turned out that the vehicle in front of them was towing a huge camper (or whatever it’s called). When he passed the second red cars they had a little chat. My bet is that Red Car had a few choice words to say about how they were all stuck, but who knows? Maybe he was admiring the gigantic thing in the back. I was just amazed that someone would bring such a thing on a one lane road like this. I’m guessing it’s not advised.
We stopped when we saw this area, which was right before the small village of Durness I think:
Then, when we hit Durness, we went in search of health food. I’d seen a sign for chocolate, after all. So we went to the area (kind of a curious little spot, including this haunted house bit and some craft stores we didn’t visit). We ordered coffees and rocky road bars. Plus, because it would have been rude not to, we chose four pieces of chocolate for later.
Between Durness and Tongue we saw these views. (Yes, Tongue! There is a village called Tongue and I need to look that up sometime to see what that name is about. Perhaps the end of a loch? Dunno!)
This is Loch Eriboll. I only shot this photo because of the curious tunnels I saw. I’ve no clue what those are about. (Not sure you can see them without enlarging the image.)
Here is Tongue:
Then we had some “not rain” as we call it, since we look at the weather and it says it’s not going to rain.
Going through the village (town?) of Thurso we purchased gas and proceeded to miss the right turn we were supposed to take, so we ended up on a lot of little country roads. It was a pretty drive, though, and I don’t think it added much more than a few minutes to our drive.
And finally, we reached today’s main destination: John ‘o Groats, here we are.
Getting out of the car was a challenge: the wind was something else. We donned our warm jackets and rain jackets, as well as our beanies. I don’t believe I’ve ever been in such wind before. Despite that, we headed out.
If you watch the video perhaps turn down the sound: I have no idea how horrendously loud it will be, nor do I know if you will even be able to hear me talk!
Honestly, this walk was intense! But gorgeous, too.
A short time before we got back to the car Dan noted that the rain was moving toward us. We walked a bit more quickly, but we still ended up getting hit by the rain and then hail. In my face. Hail in the face hurts! I was just about to get to the parking lot when wind gusts were so strong I grabbed on to a post to keep from getting blown over! I was quite relieved to get into the car, wet though I was.
A bit later Dan said, “I can smell the sheep,” assuming it was due to the rain. I said, “No. You are smelling my pants!” I was wearing my wool pants, and yep, they smell when they get wet!
So from John o’ Groats our next destination was back to our hotel. These drives take a long time and we were done. Still, we had over 1 1/2 hours to get back. I took a few shots along the way, and had we had more time would have stopped for more, as I saw a number of monuments as we drove along our one lane road. I suspect it was about WWII, but don’t know for sure about them all.
In any case, here are just a few shots, the first from Thurso. (Dan took photos 2 and 3 from his window for me.)
We reached our hotel and made our dinner reservation, which took place shortly after. I had sea bass and Dan had salmon and all was delicious, but I forgot photos until our sticky toffee pudding so you only get dessert tonight.
Tomorrow is, again, moving day. Hmmm. Where will we go? Guess you have to tune in tomorrow to find out!
For now I will take my leave: my eyes are weary and even while it’s only 9:45PM here I doubt I’ll be able to stay awake much longer!
We woke and headed down to breakfast fairly quickly. And yes, it was down: we are on the first floor (second floor in the US). I am reminded more and more about bringing our packs rather than the roller bags!
Breakfast was much more simple today: granola, yogurt, and berries in a bowl, one half slice of toast (for me, that is), orange juice, and coffee. Still, it’s more than I would have had at home, due to the toast, and of course it’s about four hours earlier than I would ever eat my first meal. I’m convinced that’s why we end up eating again midday. At home I only need two meals since I delay the first. My weight gain will be, I fear, a bit significant unless I get more exercise.
From my chair at breakfast … exciting, I know. Shortly after taking this it started to rain. Go figure. Mostly it was that misty sort of rain, but it can really drench a person!
After that it was shower and packing time. We’ve got the packing down — doesn’t take me any time at all to get that suitcase packed and zipped.
Before heading back on the NC500 we had to fill the tank. Dan commented that it’s nearly as costly as filling our BigMobile. So it goes!
From there we drove off. The first time we pulled over I saw a sign that told me there were some “Geopods” for the Northwest Highlands Rock Route” on our drive today, which could be found when there was a sign with the blue and white design you see in a photo. We stopped, though, for the view.
Another stop was at the Knocken Crag Nature Reserve. I haven’t yet mentioned that the scenery here is simply staggering, so let me say it now. The scenery is simply staggering! There. Done.
The next stop was at the Loch Awe View Point. We do a whole lot of stopping on these kinds of trips, but we don’t stay long — between the wind and the cold and sometimes rain I’m quick to get back in the car.
Yep, another stop. This time at the Ardvreck Castle. I should have taken photos of the info there. One fascinating tidbit was that a supporter of Bonnie Prince Charles thought he’d be safe escaping to this Highland spot but whoever was at the castle at the time traded him, supposedly for oatmeal. He was then hanged. (I have been missing oatmeal, but I don’t think I’ll trade Dan for some: I need him as my driver.) Sorry I don’t have the names at the moment and internet is rather slow so this is currently all you get. Perhaps I’ll update later. And of course that could all be a myth for all I know. We only took quick photos of the castle and the Calda House in the other direction.
Just a few shots from the area of Elphin.
… and then some from the Lochinver area.
We decided to take a detour to a lighthouse. Once again Your Royal Wimpiness did a bit of whimpering as Dan the Driver made his way there. It was a longer drive than either of us expected, and I did fear, at times, that we would fall into the sea. (The other day I instructed Dan that if we were to go over a cliff he wasn’t to swear as one might do in such a case, but he was to yell out, “I love you!” I figured I’d do the same. I’m not sure how keen he was about my instruction.)
On the way … some more hairy coos!
We continued the drive and then made it to the lighthouse. Anyone want to rent it? It was SO SO SO windy. (That’s a lot of wind.) At one point it nearly blew me over. We didn’t make it all the way into the lighthouse (I’m not sure that’s allowed in any case) because I’d had it with the wind.
Then back we went to reconnect with the main drive. As we went I used the passenger assist brake (on my left) and the passenger assist steering wheel (in the cup holder) a number of times. I’m helpful that way.
We’ve seen a few beaches on our drives. Too bad I didn’t bring my bikini.
Oh. Wait. I don’t own any sort of bathing suit at all! Never mind.
We reached the Drumbeg Viewpoint.
We saw a sign for some sort of secret tea garden and figured it was time to stop, relax, and have some “not lunch”. I did puzzle over all the signs I saw for the secret tea room, though. Not much of a secret, if you ask me! Anyway, it was a nice spot where we bought a bit to eat and enjoyed not only the secret tea room but no wind!
The secret tea room had no secret bathroom, so we had to amble back up the road a bit to find the WC. I took a few shots during the walk. And … now goats!
We drove on, eventually crossing a bridge and then pulling over to see a monument, read about the river below where the military did submarine training, and take a photo of the bridge.
With about an hour and a half more to get to our lodging we did a very small amount of photography, and took a five minute snooze. At this point I think we were both weary of driving. I can’t tell you how taxing it is to handle my emergency braking and steering! Plus I have to whimper every now and then. Thankfully the last bit of the drive was much easier for both of us.
For the most part, I think Dan has got this driving on the left side of the road down. We are even at a point where we grumble when someone coming toward us doesn’t know how to use the passing places correctly. We’ve been known to say, “Americans” with disdain when they get it wrong. And yes, we are being goofy. Because that’s what we do. (I’ve often said we should record our conversations because we clearly are a comedy team. Then again, I fear a lot of eye rolling should we do so.)
At a very decent time we arrived at our lodging for the next two nights. We are at the Altnaharra Hotel. This use to be a popular place for fisherman and climbers, if I read the blurb correctly. It’s old and rather charming. We enjoyed a nice dinner here as well, as there is absolutely no place nearby to eat. Dessert was the “Altnaharra Mess” and it was quite something!
We still have to figure out what where our drive will take us tomorrow. It’s impossible, I’m guessing, for us to do the entire NC500 on this trip, but we’ll try to hit a lot of it.
We are home quite late after a long day, but I’m going to do my best to write and post everything tonight. Otherwise I fear I might forget things (if I haven’t already.)
We woke to some of what I call “nothing music” on my phone. Turns out that when I put my sleep watch away it then plays the alarm on my phone. Normally it’s just the haptic thing I feel on my wrist. (One of the reasons I do like to use that watch and haptic is because if I’m sleeping on my side and my left ear is what should hear an alarm I simply won’t hear it — silly almost deaf ear!) We took a bit of time rising, but the noise below us was growing louder: we are right above the breakfast room, it seems!
We dressed and went down and Dan had the Scottish while I have the vegetarian breakfast. I neglected to take a photo of the breakfast room or our thrilling breakfast. You will have to use your imagination. But here — have a menu.
The four men behind me were in heavy garb and we heard their motorcycles later: the NC500 is a popular ride for motorcyclists, as Dan had told me.
After breakfast we went up to prepare for our drive. We will head south a bit today I think. The blogs and articles I’ve read suggest at least a week for the NC500, and some suggest even longer. I’m sure we won’t do the all of it, but we’ll certainly hit a lot of spots. (The actual map for the drive begins and ends in Inverness and we do end there since that’s where we return the car on Saturday, and we did start out from there as well: we just inserted Isle of Skye into the mix.)
The first map I set up for the car was to Gairloch.
We started out by heading down a street here we hadn’t yet been on.
From there it was out of the village, and while I’m not sure I should bother naming all the villages I’ll start by doing so. (I may run out of energy.)
Lochluichart:
Dundonnell (the small plant caught my eye … no clue what it was):
Laide:
Poolewe:
I’ve seen these “Elderly People” signs a number of places. They bug me. But sort of crack me up, too. Sure, I think an elderly woman who is hunched over should follow and hold on to the back of a man who also can’t stand up straight and must walk with a cane. Makes perfect sense.
We arrived in Gairloch, where we wanted to stop for what we now call “non-lunch”. We found this rather interesting coffee shop/bookstore. Lots of things about John Muir. A lot about Bob Marley, too. And a lot of anti-Trump things. We ordered scones (that didn’t really seem scone- like) and coffees. Then we found (finally) an actually NC500 map in the bookstore so we picked that up as well.
And now I’m confused because the next photos also say we are back in Poolewe. Hm. Maybe we did turn around for a bit. Or maybe my brain is befuddled. Or maybe both. You choose.
It started to rain while we were driving by Loch Maree. What a shock. Who knew it would rain in Scotland?!
There were lovely trees as we drove by Kinlochewe.
We stopped in what the iPhone says is Annat due to a mountain with snow on top that was lovely. It’s interesting to see the snow-topped mountains here. I also have seen several signs that say “Private Fishing”. No problem for us as we most definitely don’t fish.
Here are shots from Kenmore:
Arinna (assuming the iPhone is correct, but that’s the case with nearly all these images and who knows for sure?):
And we reached our next goal: Applecross. Yes, I was scared of the road, but it turned out to be mostly okay going to the place. And we say more hair coo! One even came running up to the fence, but I wasn’t yet out of the car so I missed that, as well as the running all of them did at one point. And those beasts are speedy! We also saw deer.
We thought we might get dinner in Applecross but there wasn’t much there and the one restaurant that had indoor seating had no openings at all. So instead we opted to find our way back to Ullapool. Little did I know that that was when the drive would get scary for wimpy me! I will post photos and videos below, but please know they look like a breeze. But on a skinny road with drop offs on the side and the occasional car or van coming toward you on a one lane road is SCARY. Honest! But there were also pretty views at times. So there’s that. Some of this is from the area called Kishorn, and some Sutherland and Ross
Dan indulged me and stopped (ON the road) so I could shoot this rhododendron, but I MUST get more shots of some plants, as some are so covered in flowers you can’t see anything but a big poof of color. Truly amazing. This one, though, was just so tall, so I put my phone out the window and shot looking up.
In Ledgowan we spotted a rainbow. (Later there was a double rainbow but I could easily shoot it.)
After about 1 1/2 hours we reached Ullapool. Whew. One incredibly day with scary drives and all. Dan is my driving hero!
Once we put things into our room we walked down to dinner. Nothing super special, but I told Dan he deserved his beer (and more, but he stuck to just that).
Tomorrow we again move on. We will still be doing the NC500, though. Stay tuned!
Oh … and NO stats for today. For one thing I forgot to even wear my watch but, more significantly, we simply walked very little and it’s not worth posting. So I’m not going to bother writing that I walked a measly 3,246 steps, went 1.37 miles, and climbed 3 flights. Because no one needs to know that.
This morning after breakfast we headed off for the Talisker Whisky Distillery. Yeah, in the morning. I’d have preferred later afternoon, but the only available time when I made the reservation a few months ago was the 10:20 AM time slot. So be it.
Starting off on our single lane road we saw a lot of sheep. I noticed a group of lambs playing around. Truly, they looked like little children on a playground, having gobs of fun! It was adorable, and Dan decided to pull over and I had time to make a video. By that time they had dispersed a bit, but still you could see some together. And oh the sounds! I hope the video does it justice.
We continued on our way, stopping once for a lovely scenic moment.
We arrived at Talisker just at about the right time. “Just about” meaning a bit late for my comfort and a bit early for Dan’s! The reservation said to arrive “at least 15 minutes early”. We were about 10 minutes early. Obviously it was no problem at all, as we saw, but I just have this thing about time!
The tour was nice, and did include whisky tastings. Three of them, which we both sipped a wee bit, but they provide tiny bottles so we could pour most of the whiskies into those for a later time.
We didn’t investigate the area around the distillery, but I took a quick shot and of course where there are flowers …!
Then we had to figure out what was next. Finally, after studying the map a while, we opted to head further south to Elgol. As we drove there we saw lots of cars parking in a lot and groups of people milling about. Turns out it was to see the Sligachan Old Bridge. We parked and I quickly walked over as Dan was setting his gear up. By the time he reached me I was ready to get warm in the car as the 45° temperature, combined with the wind, was rather chilly and I hadn’t put on my hat or puffer. Dan handed me the car keys and I assured him I wouldn’t lose them. Heh. I knew he was going to make some goofy comment after the fiasco of his bag last night so I wanted to beat him to the punch!
Getting to the car I pulled out the iPad and started this blog entry.
After I got comfortably warm I donned my hat and jacket and went back out. Just in time to meet Dan coming back. So never mind … back to the car I went.
We pulled off a few times for views, but I only did a few shots.
We took the turn for Elgol, coming across old church ruins. And sheep and lambs. (You’ve figured that out about me by now, yes?)
We stopped as well at a food truck, not for food but for the view.
When we reached Elgol we stopped at a cafe and had coffee and sweet stuff — cake for me and some sort of shortbread with chocolate and caramel for Dan. We enjoyed chatting with one of the women who worked there.
Moving on, we retraced our steps and going further we landed at Dunvegan, where I’d read about a place for dinner. Fish ‘n Chips it was.
Lastly, we wanted to get to Neist Point. On the way I did take two more photos. Gee, might there be sheep?
We reached the point. It was windy and cold, so I bundled up and headed out. When we got to one spot we could see some crazy person out on, I suppose, a zip line or some such thing. I don’t know if you can spot the person in the photos, but look carefully. (I couldn’t look for long!) We did a short walk so we could see the lighthouse as well.
Then it was time to head home, but I did make Dan stop one last time. Hm. I wonder why?
Arriving “home” we treated ourselves to a little spot of whisky and some shortbread.
Tomorrow it is, again, moving day. See you then!
6,415 steps, 2.59 miles, 6 flights climbed (not so great today!)
We are finally home and it’s been a very long day. A good day, mind you, but so long! It’s now 10:54 and I can’t really write much because we do have to get up at a decent hour tomorrow.
I will just quickly say we did a lot of the northern part of Isle of Skye. We dealt with one whopping pothole that scared me a ton. We dealt with temperatures in the 40°s. We dealt with crazy wild winds. We dealt with rain. That’s a lot of dealing!
If I could post my photos I would. For some reason it takes time for the iPhone photos to appear on my iPad so maybe it will be tomorrow when I get them up here. I’ll wait a few minutes to see.
BUT … well … um … the best/worst story of all. Dan and I went to a fabulous (and very costly) dinner. It was about 45 minutes away from our lodging. (It’s Mother’s Day, after all … so I guess I was celebrating me or some such thing since I made the reservation. Hah!) What with the light sky it wasn’t bad getting home rather late (especially for me since I’m not behind the wheel!). When we arrived at the Redwood House (our lodging) we were busy gathering our things and I grabbed coats and the like. Suddenly Dan asks, “Where’s my bag?” That’s the bag that holds his wallet, passport, phone … you know, all that important stuff.
Uh-oh.
We looked and looked I mean we searched everywhere. Dan swore up and down (not literally swearing but you know what I mean!) Finally Dan used my phone and the FindMy app. But it was so curious. It showed that his phone was in the car. Nope. NOWHERE! I suggested it just hadn’t updated and he must have left it at the restaurant. FORTYFIVE minutes away. Sigh. I told him to try and buzz it. No sound. I finally was annoyed and said I should call the restaurant.
Gee … well … um … I was putting what I was holding into the trunk as I was preparing to give up and call when I realized there was something heavy around my neck.
Yep. Me. I was the culprit. I had picked up his bag and put it around my neck. NO clue why.
He was relieved. I was just annoyed with myself.
But I guess all’s well that ends well.
Except my pride. It ended poorly. Heh!
And darn … photos still haven’t appeared on the iPad so I guess you only get my embarrassing story and nothing else. Rats! I hope I can find a few minutes tomorrow morning to post things. So sorry!
We woke at 7:00: we had to be packed and checked out by 10:00 and I don’t like to worry about time. After showering and packing we decided to go out and get coffee and a small bite to eat.
We walked a very short way to The Milk Bar, ordered our coffees and croissants, and had a relaxing time there.
Even so, after returning to our room we had forty minutes to spare. Dan knows me well, though: I get nervous about time!
When we took our bags downstairs Dan attempted to set up an Uber pick up. The app just sat there saying it was locating a driver. I figured I could try while he looked up taxis, so I set about trying to get an Uber as well. It did the same thing it did for him. (And I can’t even recall seeing one Uber here so perhaps it’s just wishful thinking on Uber’s part, suggesting they are in Inverness.) Meanwhile Dan tried to call a taxi but couldn’t get a phone call to go through, so he finally did what we probably should have done in the first place: he contacted our invisible lodging hosts. The woman answered and she was happy to get a taxi set up for us. Fifteen minutes later our driver, Greg (from Poland) joyfully greeted us and gave us a rather exciting ride to Enterprise, all the while talking about our crazy president and the crazy things in Poland as well. He also offered to help us move to Scotland. Heh. He was quite entertaining.
And then we got the car. Time for Dan to learn how to drive on the left side of the road!
Both of us were tense, of course. For me it was that I felt he was too close to my side of the road and there was no shoulder. In addition when there were cars parked on the road I kept feeling as if he would hit them! For him it was worrying about the oncoming traffic and my side. But he did amazingly well. He only turned into the wrong lane once when making a right turn. In my typical, non-confrontational way, I said, “Do you really mean to be in this lane?” Or something like that, anyway. He of course didn’t mean to do that at all, and he also suggested I go ahead and say “Wrong lane!”
In any case, he did a great job.
We went past Loch Ness, which brought back great memories of our Great Glen Way walk. We also passed through Drumnadrochit and saw the Fiddler’s restaurant that we enjoyed so much.
Lunch was nothing special, but we did stop to eat. And I finally remembered to get a photo of the car we have.
We saw very small lambs (or as I first called them, “baby sheep”) a number of times … so darn cute and I hope to get some good photos while we are here.
We eventually reached Eilean Donan Castle. We decided to pay the fee and go look at it. I took iPhone photos where I could, but they didn’t allow it in the upstairs, where the family actually lived in the summers after it was restored in 1932.
From there we continued on our way to our next spot to lodge and from which we will tour. As I mentioned to Dan, we are really hitting different sorts of spots on this trip: so far a big city (London), a smaller one (Inverness) and now … an island.
Hello, Isle of Skye!
When I was finding lodging for this trip I read that Portree was the place to stay. Nothing there was affordable. Then perhaps Broadford. Nope. So I located a place that was outside of Dunvegan near Edinbane, with a drive of 2 miles down a one lane, sort of rough but not too bad road. SO many lambs on this road!
We are lodging at the Redwood House, in a somewhat large room. I think it will be just right. One day we can tour going north and the other south. We are hoping the weather will be somewhat cooperative, but it is Scotland, so who knows?
We got to our room at about 5:30 and dinner here was scheduled for 7:00, so Dan spent time typing (I suspect doing his journal) and I began this blog. We both enjoyed some Walker’s shortbread and I made a cup of tea with milk. (Yes, Carolyn … tea! It’s the UK, after all. 😊)
We walked to dinner and found a nearly empty dining room. The entire time we were there I think maybe there were five tables occupied besides ours. I suspect this place is rather new, and of course being a distance away from things a lot of people won’t drive out for dinner. I do hope it survives. I had sea bass and Dan had chicken and they were both very tasty. Oh, and to start with we had calamari which very well might be the best I’ve ever had.
We walked out on to the lawn and the lambs and parents were still out so I attempted to get some photos. The lambs were quite skittish, though.
Then back to our room. I took a few photos of the place as we went back.
Dan checked the maps as I finished this blog entry. It’s now 9:35 PM and it’s rather light outside still. Dan is considering getting up at some horrendously early hour to do photography. He seems to think I’ll want to skip it. He might be right.
After breakfast tomorrow (he plans on getting back for that IF he really goes out) we head north to see what we can see.
All for now!
It’s hardly worth reporting but:
6563 steps, 2.7 miles, 4 flights climbed (I suspect that while we have a car we won’t be getting as much exercise.)
