Saturday, June 6

After a bit of a restless night (my watch’s sleep report was disappointed in me although it was being gentle) I woke and told Dan I would do a pj laundry shower. Laundry showers are such fun. Or maybe not. But hey, pjs and I are now clean machines.

Side Note: Ah bathrooms! Ours have run the gamut. Large and small. Old and fairly new. And, on this trip, toilets that are rather persnickety. Seems like we have to baby them. I have several suggestions for places we’ve stayed: fix those toilets! Install a motion detector nightlight in the bathroom. And please please nix those silly little trashcans that you have to open with your foot. They are annoying. That, that is all. I’m sure things will all be fixed on our next trip.

But Side Note #2: Dan and I both travel with motion detector nightlights so we place them in spots to light our way and light the bathroom when necessary.

After starting this blog entry, annoying you with my Side Notes, showering, and dressing, it was time for breakfast so downstairs we went. For once we went lighter — poached eggs on toast. Done.

Looking at the weather it appeared we’d get rain. And then no rain. And rain again. We’ve learned, though, not to trust our apps. It would be what it would be and perhaps the rain jacket was a wise choice for the day. Or umbrella. Or both. Plus a rain hat. Or would I wing it and just deal? (I really dislike having to wear the rain jacket if it doesn’t rain.)

Final decision: rain jacket, rain hat, umbrella, plus daypack so I could protect my camera should it rain hard.

Down the hill we went. Again. The middle photo below is of a monkey puzzle tree. I’m not a huge fan of them except that they are just so crazy looking. Not great for shade, though. (Not that we needed any shade today.)

We made it to the meeting spot for the Bath tour just in time. I turned around to take a photo of what I call “Tortilla Jones” because sometimes my sense of humor is just goofy like that.

A large group had congregated, and one of the eight tour guides divided us up. We then went with our guide to the front of the Abbey Cathedral.

He explained that the doors were closed and there would be no entry until the afternoon because of a procession. That procession usually included the mayor, but he had had to resign because of something he reposted (when will people learn to check to see if something is true — and if it’s wise to post even if it is?). We had expected it to begin a bit later than it did, so we were right in front when they started. I took a video but please do excuse the bad filming: my hat blew off at one point! You might not want to watch the whole thing as it is over two minutes. (I hope it will even load due to the length!)

From there we did a good amount of walking and I did take photos while I’ll post below, but much of the time we were being rained upon. My hat was on, but then the umbrella came out as well. It never really did stop. Some of what we saw with the guide were at spots Dan and I saw earlier, but the information our guides (there was on in training who led part of the tour) was fun to hear. Not that I’ll remember much, but I will try.

We ended in front of an indoor market. I was thrilled to think we’d get out of the rain and maybe Dan and I would catch a bite inside. Well, it wasn’t quite the kind of market we’d expected. There was one place where small appliances were sold. Inside that area it looked like a hardware store. Some places sold Knick knacks or clothes. There were a few food booths, but nothing appealing and all the seats were full.

We walked a bit more and found a place to get some very healthy looking salads. Unusual for us, I know.

(Doesn’t Dan look serious about his salad?) Funny thing: the food there could be take away or sit down. We said we wanted sit down. They brought us our salads in the cardboard box but set inside a bowl. It didn’t occur to either of us to empty the salad into the bowl, where it would have been easier to eat! I only realized that’s what we should have done when I looked at the tables on either side of us. Sometimes we are just slow!

Outside again, and the rain kept coming. Our tour guide had told us about a free museum so we opted to go in there for a bit. It was nothing thrilling, but it was out of the rain.

Oh … but it also had bathrooms (really “toilets” as they are called here), and inside the women’s was some more art! I looked at the two pipes in a corner and then looked down. Cracked me up!

We left the museum and thought maybe we needed coffee. Not because we needed coffee, really, but because it was still raining.

As we walked there was a huge crowd of mostly men going the opposite direction, some of whom were quite noisy and, I’m guessing, a wee bit intoxicated. All we could think, considering how many there were, was that some sort of game had ended. Who knows, though. In any case, we walked until we finally ended up at the same place we had coffee yesterday. The biggest requirements were indoors and empty seats we could fill. As my sister-in-law Ruth Ann wrote, Dan looks rather dapper … don’t you agree? (He took this selfie. All credit to him.)

While we had our coffee and contemplated walking more in the rain I thought to check the map, plugging in our B&B. We are in a more residential area, so I had assumed there would be no eating establishments nearby, but I was happy to see I was wrong. About ten minutes away is a place called The Moorfield, and they had a reservation opening for 5:45. I grabbed it. The thought of eating down the hill and then, after said eating, walking up with a full stomach in, most likely, rain and wind, didn’t seem appealing to either of us. Besides, with all the rain we had so far enjoyed (hah!) we were just a bit weary.

So we agreed we’d head back to our room. When we arrived and started up the stairs a man greeted us and said something about us having had it with the weather as well. I guess he and his wife gave up and also returned.

In our room Dan did whatever Dan does on his iPad and I did more of this blog. Suddenly the wind got super crazy. How glad I was to be in our room!

Oh … and I’ve not reported on our colds. So far mine is so minor I don’t know that I can call it a cold. I’m hoping it stays that way.

We both ended up snoozing a little bit, but then it was time to head to the restaurant I had found. Of course it was raining again!

It was also a bit longer of a walk than I expected, but we finally arrived at The Moorfields and in we went. It’s not in a busy section of town, and I think it’s more of a neighborhood place, which I enjoy. Next to us were people with a tiny baby, I saw another young one as well, and in another room there was a family.

We ordered poblano peppers to share, and then Dan had a burger and I had chicken. Prices were quite reasonable, and my dinner was tasty. Obviously no desert was necessary!

Now about Dan and napkins. For some reason they fly off his lap nearly every time! I think I need to document this from now on.

After Dan paid the check we walked back a slightly different way. It seemed faster, but that might be because, miracle of miracles, the rain had stopped!

Now we are back in our room, and I’m having chamomile tea. I won’t tell you we had Kit Kat bars (which the B&B provide) because I know you would think less of us if you knew we indulged.

Tomorrow is moving day. Again. As always I’m pretty much packed, as long as the weather doesn’t cause me to change my mind. I’ll just have to add pjs and the toothbrushes to my suitcase, and put my iPad in my daypack and I’m ready to hit the road. Will we hike down the hill with our roller bags? We hope to. That, too, will depend upon the weather.

About our trains: for the first time it’s a three train day, each from a different company. First it’s Great Western Railroad (GWR), then Transport for Wales Rail (TFW — and no, we aren’t landing in Wales), and finally Cross Country (XC). All are fairly short rides, but it was how I had to put it all together to get to our next destination.

It’s too early to hit the hay, but still I will say goodnight.

13,382 steps, 5.31 miles, 12 flights climbed

First Full Day in Porto

We began quite lazily since we have no bags to pack and we don’t have a walk scheduled. Of course that doesn’t mean we didn’t walk, and in Porto it does mean you will most likely have a climb! After showers we got ready and first had to go downstairs to tell them our room is quite cold (the heater doesn’t appear to be working) and the toilet won’t stop flushing! At home we just jiggle the handle, but here there is no handle to jiggle so I guess someone will have to come up and fix that.

Then it was nearing breakfast time. At home I’d never think of eating breakfast, but … wellllll … vacations are just different! We wanted somewhere close so I did a search on coffee and saw that Coaque – Artisan Chocolate was the closest place. Now you might wonder about the chocolate thing. I sure did! Honestly, I think they’d be smart to change the name: yes, there is a lot of chocolate, but they also serve breakfast, and I think lunch also. We ate very well.

After our meal we made our way to Gaia, via the Luis I Bridge. If you know me, you know heights give me the Willies, but I do manage to cross bridges without too much fear.

Photos are from our walk to the bridge and on the bridge:

We had a 1:30 date with Caves Ferreira to do a tour, so we went in that general direction. It brought back memories of our first visit to Porto, when Meghan and Jameson were also here. That time we didn’t do a tour but we did have an amazing time at Graham’s, as we had dinner reservations there. This time I did try for a Graham’s tour, but nothing was available. I guess those have to be scheduled well in advance. So we walked to Ferreira’s just to make sure we knew where we were going, and then went to have a snack and a beer. The zero alcohol kind … we’d get enough port anyway!

The tour was enjoyable and I did actually learn some things. I liked the tasting (you can see the photo of what we tried below), but I have to be honest and say I really don’t have a discerning palate like some do. You could buy me cheap stuff and I’m not sure I’d know the difference, sad but true.

After our tasting we walked through a place that reminded us of Lisbon’s Time Out Market but without the crowds (and not nearly as large), and then up to something called WOW, which we later learned meant “world of wine” and there were various “experiences”. Now call us sarcastic, or maybe skeptical, or perhaps both, but when we see that there’s a wine experience, and a chocolate experience, and a cheese experience, um, well, we just aren’t interested in experiencing any of them. Not there, anyway. Those seem more like big tourist traps to us. What we’d thought was there was some art … somewhere we’d read something that gave us that impression. But nope, just a modern looking place that I think is supposed to make money and appears to have very few people buying into it.

Photos here are after the tasting up until leaving WOW:

We quickly left and went back down the stairs and had to decide if we would take a ferry across the Douro, go uphill to the bridge, or take a gondola ride to the bridge. Again, yours truly is incredibly squeamish about heights, but there is something about being in an enclosed gondola that causes me not to be fearful. I can’t explain it, but there you go. So we opted for the gondola (yes, I know: tourist trap stuff!): the views were fun, but it sure went quickly.

We had planned on going right back to our hotel, although first we would grab a snack to bring with us, but then we looked up and decided to go up a small hill to see a building that was calling our name. It was windy at the top but, again, there were spectacular views. It was well worth the small climb.

Finally it was time to head back. Over the bridge we went, past the big church, and then down some of the wonderful narrow alleyways of Porto. (And saw the biggest Ficus elastica ever.) We bought our snack supplies as well.

Then we went up to our third floor room and shoes came off, chip bag was opened, and it was relaxation time.

I had made reservations for a nearby place that had good reviews and had an opening for 7:30. We are learning that reservations are a very good idea in a city that is so popular with tourists. When it was time we walked all of two minutes to Tá-Berna Wine & Tapas Bar. We really enjoyed the food, and our server was fun to watch as she was in charge of the entire upstairs (well, okay, it wasn’t a huge upstairs, but she sure moved quickly), and was just very friendly. After we ate our dessert of these little balls of yumminess I told her I loved mine and she smiled and said she makes them herself! Then, going downstairs to pay, she was there to take the payment and take a photo of us (on one of those instant cameras) to put on the wall. She had me put our names on it as well. What fun!

It hadn’t fully appeared but I quickly took a photo. And I think that being on that wall makes us famous. Or something. (Hmmm … maybe we should get a free drink?)

After paying we went back to our hotel and up to our room after I had a 20€ bill changed into some coins so we have tip money for housekeeping. Yes, tips are done in Porto, although one doesn’t leave nearly as much here as in the states, from all I’ve read.

Now I do believe it’s time to sleep. Last night I slept pretty well once I took a Benadryl. I had had a reaction to something and with itchy eyes, ears, and throat I decided a pill might help with that and perhaps I’d even sleep better. Sure enough, that worked! (Today I saw that there was some sort of stuff floating in the air, similar, if not the same, to the cottonwoods in the US. I suspect that’s what I was reacting to, but who knows?!

But you don’t really need to know all of that. I’m rambling. And I should say goodnight! So … GOODNIGHT!

A Stirling Day

It’s odd not getting up and having no walk or train ride to prepare for. Not that I’m complaining!

There are far too many photos on this post: I don’t think I can continue to post this number, but since I have them, I’ll put ‘em up today because I have enough time.

We woke, had our lovely breakfast, spoke with the hostess who talked to Dan a lot about the Mitchells of Dundee … and I remembered to take a few photos of the bar and the “library” before we went to our room to ready ourselves for the day.


It was rainy.

It’s Scotland.

This is not unusual for this area, although our first few days in Scotland were so unusually sunny I thought perhaps we brought the area great weather. (Yes, I like to take credit for things like that.) But no, it’s rainy and likely to be that way on other days. No worries, as we are prepared. I was happy that I brought my nicer raincoat. I also have my hat, a scarf, and an umbrella. So what’s a bit ‘o rain, eh?

We took our time getting out and about, and when we did we headed in the direction of Stirling Castle, for which we had 1:00 tickets. On the way we saw a few things that caused us to stop and take photos, including a building that had “Boy Scouts” on it. I’m guessing it’s not the same as the US Scouts, but who knows? I just liked the witty sayings on the building.

In case you can’t read it, this one reads, “Quarreling is Taboo”.

Then we spotted the Church of the Holy Rude and took some time in there. I was dismayed when the person taking the fee to visit gave us the “Concession” (as in senior) discount without asking. WHAT?! Don’t I look like I’m in my forties … or even fifties?! (Kidding!)

Before our castle appointment we figured we’d grab a “little” lunch. I have a feeling Scotland doesn’t really do little … or else we are just picking the wrong places. But lunch was definitely enjoyed. So were our tiny beers.

In some ways I found the castle overwhelming. We purchased the audio tour, which we listened to via our phones. I think most places are doing that now and I highly suspect Covid might have been the start of it (the narration makes it sound like we should have a device they hand out) and I’ll bet they continue with this method — works just fine for me.

There is much to hear about the castle, and a good amount to see. We chose to be outside first, knowing that, while it was not sprinkling at the moment, it had rained earlier and would rain again.

Sure enough, rain came. So then it was the indoor places to see.

We grew a bit weary after listening to the tour recording for so long, and eventually opted to go back to our hotel and eat some of our leftover goodies from our walk lunches. We needed to be sure we had something in our stomachs because …

Next up … a Stirling gin tour at the Stirling Distillery. We walked over to the distillery, which was a mere 10 minutes or so away. There was only one other couple there for the tour. Small samples of gin were set in front of us, along with one cocktail. The tour guide, Kate, was wonderful and I learned quite a bit about gin. This distillery is somewhat new. I would highly recommend visiting it.

We purchased four of the tiny bottles: we simply have no room at all in our luggage for more. But I really want to see if we can order some at some point. Thanks, Kate, for the great tour. It was a lovely experience!

Tour over ‘n out … time to walk. I have been admiring so many stone walls with plants growing in them I finally took a photo.

From there we walked over to a pub called Nicky-Tams Bar & Bothy. We had simple dinners. Nothing to write home about, but just fine. This time the beers were a bit larger. (A nice thing about beers over here is that many are lower in alcohol and you can safely enjoy a larger glass!)

And back to our hotel we went.

Tomorrow we head out on the train again. I’m hoping for a less rainy day, but … well … it’s Scotland!