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Walking Done … But Not Really

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We woke, did some packing, and went to have breakfast. It’s the first place where all guests sat at the same table. A day or so ago we saw a young woman with a t-shirt that said “California 1991” so we asked if she was from California and she said no, she was from Scotland and bought the t-shirt at a store there. We asked where in Scotland and she said near Inverness and so we mentioned the Great Glen Way walk we took. Then she got more specific with her home because she knew we would have passed right through it: she (and her travel companion) are in Drumnadrochit! We talked about where we ate and of course they knew the places. Small world.

After breakfast we finished our packing, and took our bags up for the bag pick-up, had another cup of coffee, and enjoyed the view one last time.

I took a quick photo of our lodging, and then we walked in the village a bit, just to check it out.

Then it was time to do the descent back to Pinhão. Plus a few climbs just to make it more fun, I guess. The way we went, using the app, was certainly not the fastest way down, but I think the plan was for us to be able to really see more views and a couple of the wineries as well. It was a pleasant walk.

On our way down, very close to Pinhåo, a dog seemed to want to guide us. It was pretty funny … if we stopped he’d wait. Eventually he did go his own way. (Later on we were sitting with Patrizia, Rudy, Peter, and Judith — the latter being people we’d seen but only actually met while sitting together. They, too, were from Switzerland. Turns out the dog also did the same for Peter and Judith! Funny.)

And then the walk ended. But as I titled this entry, “not really” … because of course we will walk every day in every city!

When we reached Pinhão we went to the train station.

We were told our luggage would be at “the house in front of the train station.” Curiously, we saw no house. Before worrying much about that we went inside the station to talk to the man selling tickets. Why? Because the strike is still on, of course! (Because of the strike we did have the insurance of bus tickets which, funnily enough, were more expensive than the train.) He said yes, the train was running. So far. Kind of shrugged and said something about the strike. Earlier, because of the potential of no train, we had opted to get a ride (with Patrizia and Rudy) to Régua because that’s where the bus would depart, so we did plan on doing that in any case. At that point we did see Patrizia and Rudy and they, too, were wondering about luggage. Shortly after that, though, our luggage transport guy drove by and while driving told us not to worry or some such thing. Turns out HE had the luggage in his taxi and he would be the one to drive us to Régua. Okay then.

So off we went. He drove pretty crazily, but we are still alive so whatever.

Getting to the train station in Régua, we sat with the other four new found friends, had some beer, and just enjoyed on another’s company. It was a lovely time.

Then … ta-da!!! … the train showed up. A noisy old thing, but it was a train and it got us to the Campanhã station in Porto. We then jumped on another train to get us to Sao Bento, a really beautiful train station …

… and opted to get ourselves to our hotel without taking a taxi. Not a problem, really, but it was downhill so I’m pretty sure we’ll take a car back to the train station when we leave this city!

Our hotel is fairly new and quite nice.

Below is us a fairly busy street so I’ll be interested to see how the noise is tonight. We have a nice view of some buildings across the street, though.

After we got settled in we went down for our free “welcome port” which was nice …

… and then we went in search of dinner. The first place Dan read about had quite the line, so that was a no. Then we went to an area we ate at the last time we were here but nothing seemed to have room. (Later we could hear music blasting from that street, so we were rather glad not to be there.) Finally I opened up The Fork (like Open Table) and I just searched for restaurants near us and we found a place. It was nice, and we were the only ones eating inside for quite a while. I was surprised so many were eating outside, as it was quite chilly.

We are now back in our room, and I will quickly try to upload photos because I’m rather tired. I think finishing our walking holiday just sort of zapped me. Tomorrow, though, I’m sure my energy will be back, and we are looking forward to more time in Porto.

Ciao!

Day Two in Lisbon

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It was another late start day. I woke at around 7, but Dan was asleep so I set my watch alarm for 8. When it woke me I thought Dan was still sleeping so I snoozed some more, only to wake up far too late (after 9:00!) to see Dan awake and reading. Ah well … we are on vacation so I suppose I can sleep in. (But I really hate losing time out and about.)

When we finally got moving we went first through Rossio Square with its crazy tile work that makes me want to step up when there is really no step.

Then on to the Rossio train station to see what we will do for an excursion we have planned for tomorrow.

It took us a bit of time to figure out the train ticket situation, but we did finally get that done, and then we went up to see “our” old place from 2023 and the restaurant we’ll return to after two years that was mere steps from our VRBO. First, though, there was this changing of the guard for who knows what reason: I think they are just in front of a museum, but who knows?

It was an easy walk from the station to “our place” and the restaurant and then we just rambled a bit. We went inside a church, and managed to get a glimpse of “pink street”, among other things.

With such a late start we soon decided we wanted to get lunch. We walked a while, and saw nothing inviting (but we did see a group of French guys who were already quite inebriated … go figure). Finallly I (foolishly?) suggested the Time Out Market. It’s really a tourist trap, and not a culinary delight as they might imply, but at least we knew we would find food.


Trouble is, we might not find a place to sit! And so it goes. People who do find a spot stay for eons, and no one thinks to look at two senior citizens who are on their last legs and offer to give up their chairs. Okay … maybe we look rather healthy. But still, I have gray hair and I’m old, doggone it! In any case, we ordered or chicken piri piri and stood at a table until, about when we were done, a woman next to us found a chair and brought it to me. (Dan never did get to sit.) The food was okay, but I think we could have done better a few streets down. We just didn’t know just where to go.

After lunch we went outside to check and see what was on my to-do list. There were two things I mentioned: the “LX Factory” and the Capela de Santo Amaro. Both were over two miles away, and Dan and I weren’t really sure we were up for that, so we were looking at other things, but finally decided (as it was raining, but only lightly) that we’d give the Capela a try. Thankfully the rain stopped and the shower was so light I wondered if I really needed to bring my umbrella at all.

So off we went. On not lovely roads. As I mentioned to Dan, he hadn’t gotten his camera out once! But on we plodded, until I noticed, to my left, the LX Factory. Go figure! So we walked in. It’s a bunch of places to eat and shops, and very cool looking. But we weren’t hungry and we aren’t into shopping, so we decided we might return for a snack later and continued on to the Capela.

And the Capela (yes, I’m bilingual, if not more … hah! Capela=Chapel) was really rather cool. I’ll just let it speak for itself in photos.

When we left raindrops began to fall. And fall. And fall. Plus there was wind. We walked back down to the LX spot, but decided, since we weren’t into drinking alcohol, that there really was nothing there for us, so we opted to walk back to the hotel.

That rain was really annoying by this point, and the wind wanted to mess with my umbrella. But we plodded on and eventually we got back to the hotel for a very brief rest.

Soon it was time to head to dinner. I had been looking forward to our return so it was such fun to arrive and tell a server how we had enjoyed it so much two years ago. Back then both our meals were served outside, but since — can you guess? — it had started to rain again on our walk that certainly wasn’t going to happen today. We went inside, were seated, and proceeded to enjoy an absolutely delicious meal, with excellent service. If you ever go to Portugal, be sure and try and find Oficina do Duque. It is well worth it!

On our way home we stopped by a Ginginha spot we knew from 2023, and we enjoyed our little “medicinal” (!) treat.

It’s a cherry liqueur and surely it must be good for us. They can be served in a chocolate cup if ordered that way, and that’s what we did. Unfortunately this place doesn’t serve it with a cherry if requested, and I missed that. I guess that means we have to visit another one before we head out of Lisbon … right?

Then back to the hotel. I enjoyed a shower after spending far too much time trying to figure out how to get hot water. I think we need a universal law regarding showers. Yes?

Tomorrow we have another adventure. I suppose I should sleep now.

Oh … a bit of an aside: adjusting to the time change has been surprisingly easy this time. I have no clue why, but I’m not complaining!

December 19, Part Two

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Sooo … we got settled and went out. Um … HELLO?! What is this wet stuff? We had to go back into our room and collect our raincoats. We had no idea it was raining, because I’d closed the shutters. Oops!

So then we went out yet again, and walked toward the opera house. It’s amazing to think they perform eighteen operas a year. Crazy! We do four. SF Opera has cut back to six.

The rain, though, was getting heavier, so we quickly went in to a local spot and had coffee and cake. Not healthy, but hey, it’s vacation! (Of course the rain then stopped.)

After that we walked some more. The person at the hotel desk had said something about the crowds. Little did we know!! It is absolutely insane here. Who knew? Certainly not us!

We finally went into Mercado de San Miguel to have a tapas and vermut. Big yum. And great memories of the first time we visited Madrid.

Then more walking. And the crowds became even more insane. (To the point of, “Is this really even safe?!”)

And then there was this (this should be a video, but I’m not certain it is loading. Maybe later …?):

Eventually we decided to get dinner before the crowds did. It appears they don’t eat until 9:00. Too late for me, for sure. We chose an Argentinian spot that said it was 19.90€ for a full meal including a drink and dessert.

We sat down, and the menu said 175€. Um. REALLY?!?! Turns out we had to go to the bar area for our deal. Which we did. We aren’t interested in a huge, more meat than you can eat, meal. (At home we don’t even eat meat!) Nor do we need a fancy table. So we moved, apologizing to the people there (but I’ll just bet they are used to this), and placed our order. Even with the smaller, less costly meal, we couldn’t finish. SO much food! TOO much, actually. I think tapas work better for me.

After finishing we had to find our way back to the hotel. My phone navigation system wasn’t working at all (my phone barely worked earlier as well). Turns out I was on something called “Movie Star” rather than the typical “Oxygen” service. Now really … I know I appear a bit like a movie star, but this was a bit much. I’m glad, though, that I figured out the problem

So now we are back in our room. I’m hoping to sleep tonight, but these late meals do make it a challenge, so we shall see how it goes.

Buenas noches!

Happy Thanksgiving … For Some Of You

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We began our morning with coffee and breads. I’m so thankful that we are able to do our travels, and extremely grateful that Jan and Greg are willing to house us … and, yes, feed us. For us, though, Thanksgiving will be on Saturday since the Germany gang doesn’t get today off.

We discussed all our tasks for meal preparation. I am making carrot ginger soup and glazed carrots (yes, I know they are both using carrots but they will have different things to sway them in different directions). Dan is doing bread, Brussels sprouts, and sweet potatoes. Greg is doing the turkey, cranberry relish, red cabbage, gravy, and I’m guessing he will also choose the wine. Jan is doing mashed potatoes and making sure we all get things done! (She’s the list keeper for this and I’m glad she’s put that together. It’s a lot of things to keep track of.) Some things are already prepared, some are in process, and some will get done tomorrow or Saturday morning.

After a while Dan suggested we go back to Mannheim since we really didn’t see much of it so while Greg got ready to take what turned out to be a long bike ride Jan, Dan, and I went to catch a street car. The number 5 goes to Mannheim. Um … sort of. It worked the first time we took it. This time it took the longest route possible, it seems. But we did finally get there, and I got to nap a bit (I still am not sleeping well … last night I was up between about 2 and 4 and then again from 5 to 6).

Arriving in Mannheim right near the water tower we went right there and checked out the Christmas market there. We bought our flammenkuchen (terrifically healthy stuff! HAH!) and then had glühwein We wandered by all the stands but, honestly, I wasn’t really interested in all the stuff people sell, and I wondered if people really buy some of the things … but what do I know?! (Don’t answer. Heh.)

After that it was back to the street car and deliberately read the destinations and, sure enough, we were choosing the number 5 to go back to Heidelberg. But … well … wait! At one stop the number changed to a different one and suddenly it veered incorrectly and we weren’t going to get home! So we had to get out and walk to another spot and grab a street car that would actually get us home. I guess I will never understand them … but Greg, when we arrived home, suggested we should have taken the train which would have been faster. Go figure!

Once we got home I decided to make the glazed carrots. The more we make ahead of time the better, I do believe. So after that and after a bit of glühwein we decoded we’d take everyone out to dinner (who wants to make dinner when preparing dinner for another day … RIGHT?!).

Dinner was at an Italian restaurant called Salerno’s, just down the street. And we all ate a lot and it was great fun.

Home meant a bit of cremont and some that incredibly expensive fruit & nut Alsacian treat that I foolishly bought. Okay … maybe not so foolishly since we all really like it! We are thinking it might be baerewecke. Sure fits the description!

Tomorrow is a big cooking day. I’m really hoping I sleep better tonight, but I’m not counting on it, considering the huge meal we ate at Salerno’s!

Anyway, Happy Thanksgiving to all my friends in the not so United States. Enjoy your day!

Food Photos

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I’m not going to write more at the moment about our fabulous experience, but enjoy the photos if you’d like. If you ever go to Riquewihr be sure and get a reservation for La Tabla du Gourmet! The service was great, the food amazing, and it was a memorable experience that I know I’ll never forget.

And of course the reason we enjoyed this meal: Jan & Greg!

Sunday, November 24

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We woke at a fairly decent time today, and Greg had already walked to pick up some croissants. When he returned we sat down to a nice little breakfast.

A bit after that we all got into the car and went on a little drive, eventually getting to the town of Eguisheim. What a fascinating place, designed in circles. We wanted a good amount, enjoying lots of Christmas decorations. The Christmas markets aren’t open yet, but that doesn’t stop them from putting up tons of decorations. We sampled some sort of very heavy, probably fruit based bread with nuts. It was quite delicious. I’m not exactly sure what’s in it, but I am sure I paid an arm and a leg! Who knew? I need to ask before I buy.

I thought of my brother Timothy at one point …

Being as it is Sunday not as much was open, so finding lunch wasn’t as easy as it might have been, but we did eventually find something that worked. Because we have our very fancy, Michelin star reservation tonight (!) we knew we needed something but not too much. I merely had a simple bowl of soup. That was quite sufficient.

From Eguisheim we went to Kaysersberg. Another sweet town, and more decorations. We noticed at both Eguisheim and Kayserberg that bears seem to be a popular subject for decorations — they were sitting on windows sills above us, featured in store windows, and very rarely was there a place where we didn’t see any. I guess I might look that up and see if there’s a story behind the bears. And, typical me, I neglected to take photos of the bears. Oops!

As we continued walking we went past cheese, meat, and bread places and we enjoyed more samples. And of course we had to get a selfie.

We walked to the end of the cute part of town and when coming back purchased a few things. How can one resist excellent cheese and chocolates, after all? Both towns were just charming!

Then it was back to the house to rest, relax, say goodbye to the light, and eventually dress for dinner.

Now dinner … well … it was pretty darn amazing. We arrived at La Table du Gourmet at 7:15. We left at close to 11:00. And we were the only four in the entire place! We did the 9 course meal, which means more than 9 courses. And I did take photos. Photos and more will have to wait, though, as I do need to get to bed. Just know it was an incredible time and something one does maybe a once or twice in a lifetime. Or … okay … maybe more for some folks, since I think this was Greg and Jan’s third or fourth time. But for us? I suspect that’s the only time we will have the opportunity to go to this particular restaurant. (Good thing, since we really can’t afford to do more!)

For now, though, I say goodnight!

St. Patrick’s Day Sunday

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This morning began slowly, since we had all agreed we’d not get together in the morning: I know what it’s like to hang with parents, and I know breaks were needed!

I headed upstairs to get my cappuccino, posted photos on to the yesterday’s blog entry, and played my puzzles (got ‘em all but the easy level of “colorfle”).

Then I figured I’d walk to Russian Samovar to see how walkable the route was since it’s where we are having dinner tonight. As it turned out, there was a half marathon taking place and I couldn’t get to where I wanted to go!

Instead I kind of followed the marathon route, figuring I’d then go to Central Park. Well, they had most of that blocked off from the east side so I had quite a walk to find a way in.

I only went through a short bit of it, and then headed back out. I then thought I’d head back to Russian Samovar. I got there in a rather circuitous way: Manhattan and I don’t see to agree on North, South, East, and West. But I did find it.

From there I reset my watch so I could check the distance to the hotel. Only trouble is that after a bit of a walk I saw the Hudson. Um … that’s not on the east side! I had walked the opposite direction of what I should have done. I still have no clue how I got completely off like that! So back I went, and finally, after nearly 7.5 miles of walking, I was back at the hotel.

I put my feet up for a short time, but it was after 1:00 and I did think I should probably get a bit to eat so I went close by and ordered a burrito. “Mission style” is what it said, whatever that means. But it was tasty so no complaints here, other than I could only eat half of it. (And there is no fridge on my room.)

Then it was relaxation time again, and then Brandon wrote to say he was on his way here. I decided we could meet up at our destination before the restaurant since there is nothing special about this hotel, so I put on my dress (!) and out I went.

We met up for a drink before Samovar at the Monkey Bar … I wish I’d taken a quick photo. Rats! There were drawings (paintings?) of monkeys all over the walls.

Landing at Samovar Jameson, Meghan, and Timothy met up with us. (I missed Lia, but with so much stress and all she took a much needed break.) The food and drinks were tasty, and the live music fun. I’m so glad I finally got there, since Dan had been talking about it after his solo visit here.

Did we have fun? Maybe …

Brandon kindly walked me back to my hotel (passing through Grand Central Station) and now here I am, hoping for some sleep. I rarely sleep well on the first few nights of a trip. I’m guessing this short one means I will never get a great night’s sleep, but I don’t really fret over it — I’ll sleep when I get home!

Oh … and it looks like I walked 12 miles today. It’ll do!