I just added gobs of photos … and a couple videos as well, to May 24. In case you want to view that entry again. When I originally posted it after our long walk that day I only posted two photos. I was just too weary!
Tag Archives: Great Glen Way
It’s Always Longer Than We Expect
A friend (Hi Kevin!) said he and his wife add 2 miles to the listed mileage on walks. Indeed, it appears to be what we are told and the reality of a walk is usually a bit different. Sometimes it’s due to getting off the trail and walking to our lodging, and sometimes due to a diversion. Sometimes, though, I wonder if they simply didn’t measure correctly!
Today we woke and had a fabulous breakfast. For once I didn’t order salmon and eggs (which, by the way, has been served in a different way at each B&B), but had a cheese, meat, and fruit plate. It was lovely, but so much more than I could eat.


The B&B owners (Isabelle and Robert here at Woodlands in Lewiston) packaged what I had left up and put it in the wonderful prepared lunch we had purchased. Getting back from the walk we still had food left!
We were picked up by a driver (the same company that hauls our luggage) because we were taking to our starting spot and walking back (as I believe I mentioned yesterday — I’m too lazy to verify that!). He picked up four other walkers … all of whom we had met on the trail! What fun! Our driver (I really should have gotten his name) was super, talking about the area and pointing out a variety of things. So the ride was pleasant AND he then stopped at a spot and said, “Now I could go on for 2 miles where your walk starts, but you’d be walking two miles on a narrow road so if you want to start here that’s fine,” (maybe not those exact words, of course). Our company had told us he would do that, but the others were surprised. I had expected everyone else to decline the offer, preferring to do the entire (painful) walk, but they enthusiastically wanted to start at this spot as well.
When we exited the car we all agreed we wanted a photo, so group photo it was!

We started at a place that advertised food and camp sites. Dan and I had seen this place on one of the videos we watched, and I’d also read about it. The woman doesn’t quote a price for anything, saying she “isn’t sure” and then, so we’ve heard, charges a crazy high amount. It might still be fun for the experience of it all, but since all of us were just beginning we didn’t walk over.

The walk started easily enough. And it was lovely.
The driver had told us there was a “nursery school” on our walk. I don’t think it means exactly what we refer to as nursery school, but I don’t know for sure. They had created sweet painted, wooden birds that were on posts, and then we reached the lovely spot where they do crafts and a variety of things. Really nice!


From there we reached a place where we could take the high route or the low route. Of course we went for high!

There was definitely a climb, but it wasn’t killer and, to be honest, going up is so much easier for me than going down. (With a bad right big toe and a left toe that isn’t much better, going down is somewhat painful now.) We reached one high spot and two of the people who had been in the van with us (sisters, from Belgium) were there so we took photos of them on their phone and then they took photos of us.


Then more uphill. I reached a spot before Dan so I enjoyed a little rest on a seat there.

Continuing up we ran into two women we’d connected with the past few days who were going the opposite way and heading all the way to Inverness. That’s at least twenty miles. No thank you. Plus the climb out of Drumnadrochit is crazy hard. (But going down is rotten on my toes!)
The wind came up, and then we ended up at a viewpoint that was gorgeous but so cold and windy. We didn’t last long there.




More walking, much of it easy. We again ran into the sisters. We puzzled over it … they had been ahead of us! It turned out they went the wrong way at one point, which took them on a longer route and added at least a mile to their walk. Oops!

Another meet up with the sisters … another photo!

And then there was a ton of downhill stuff. I’ve always despised downhill, and with a couple of problematic toes I hate it even more. But if I wanted to do the walk, and wanted to get back to our B&B what choice did I have? At least there was a lot of beauty to be admired, and I figure it’s not worth crying over … what I have to do just has to be done!
We did see lovely views. We saw sheep (which, close up, are pretty darn filthy sometimes). We saw, from a distance, some highland cows. (I want to see them closer so I can get a photo, but I suspect that chance of that is gone now.)



And then there was the road. And over 2.5 miles. On these roads in Scotland it is a bit scary sometimes. Cars are SO close there are even signs telling pedestrians to beware of things that might hit is. (I can’t remember how they phrased it … maybe something about “overhead”.) Dan and I had to walk single file just to be on the safe side.
Eventually we were “home” … lovely heather and all …


but it was much later than we had expected, allowing time for showers and the start of writing this but nothing more. We had thought we might even have a nap time. Nope!
And, finally, dinner at the Loch Ness Inn. And it was yummy. No photos, though: I mostly take food photos these days just so I remember what I ate, but they usually aren’t worth sharing. (But as you can see, I thought breakfast was worth posting.)
Tomorrow we again take the van to a starting point, but this time we also bring our luggage with us and the van will deliver it to our final B&B, in Inverness, on the Great Glen Walk. My understanding is that this walk will be fairly easy and not all that long, and perhaps a bit boring, but at this point I figure we’ll know when we know!
This all has gone by quickly. I’m glad we did it, and I wouldn’t mind doing another, but I think I’d like to move to a new area … maybe something in England. Time will tell if we have the money, inclination, and health to allow for any more of these, though!
Day Two, May 21
We began today with breakfast at Distant Hills B&B. It’s a great way to start a walk, really. The owners here, Dani and Cameron, are delightful, and I will have to share photos of the flowers growing in the yard at some point: they are amazing!

After breakfast Cameron drove us to our starting spot for today’s walk, and off we went.



Starting out at the locks we headed up on a road. Now roads in Scotland are pretty darn narrow, so I frequently heard Dan yell out (he was behind me) “Car back!” to warn me of a car coming up the road. I nearly always step further aside and turn around so the driver can see that I know he/she is there. Nearly everyone waves.
Speaking of that, I must say that people here are quite friendly: nearly every walker and cyclist greets us as we pass by. I love it.
From the road we were taken to a path for walkers and we stayed on that a bit, crossing the road at one point, and then heading down to Loch Lochy. We then were going to spend a whole lot of time walking either near the loch or a bit above it. We went through lovely forested areas. We also went through an area that had new plantings of trees. (I really can’t remember the exact order of things, so I very well may get some things out of order.)












And we also ended up on a road again. Another narrow — and later narrower — road, but I may be getting things out of order. How is one’s brain supposed to function after nearly 13 miles?!
At one point there was a long slog through a forested area that wasn’t all too exciting. But not every inch of a walk can be exciting, right?

We stopped for our lunches, prepared by Dani at Distant Hills. Dan hung his pack on a log that was sticking out. I foolishly set my pack and camera back on the ground. We took a bit of time for lunch and headed out again. I’m not sure when I looked at my right wrist, but there was Mr. Tick, just trying to burrow in. Thankfully I saw it before he did get in there, and got him off completely. I’m guessing I’m just fine because of quickly doing that, but I’ll be watching that part of my wrist for a while. Lesson learned: don’t set things down near plant life.
The GGW had a diversion somewhat close to the end of our walk, where we had switchbacks along a trail that honestly wasn’t difficult as it gained altitude rather slowly. There were signs along the way … um … I think they are called interpretive? Anyway, we had the most lovely expansive views on this part of the walk.



And then it was just walk, walk, walk. Not quite as exciting although there were pretty moments, and even in those that aren’t amazing are just pleasant.
My only problem, and it was minimal, was that my feet swell as I walk and my smaller toes aren’t always happy. I suspect after this trip I will dismiss these shoes and get something with a larger to box. I had worn these on walks at home and thought they were fine, but I think for longer walks I can use that more generous toe box … if I can find something that fits! (I have very large feet and finding shoes isn’t always easy.)
Eventually we ended up at the Laggan Lochs and I called our driver to see how we were to meet up. Despite the somewhat difficult connection and my inability to understand him all the time I did figure out what we were to do so we waited for him to arrive, which he did after maybe fifteen or twenty minutes. We will see him, Al, tomorrow as well. He’s a character, and at first I thought he was angry at us but I think I just didn’t catch on to his personality at first.
So then it was a bit of time to relax before dinner. Our feet and muscles could certainly use that! For dinner we revisited last night’s restaurant: we have no choice as it’s the only restaurant in town!

Tomorrow we get picked up by Al at about 9:45 or so and head to Laggan Lochs again. He will then transport our luggage to our destination as we walk to Fort Augustus. I doubt we’ll have to worry about the luggage arriving since he takes it right there, but time will tell.**
**NO! I was wrong about Al taking our luggage. I’m not sure where I got the idea he would deal with it!
First Ten … Done!
And only 69 to go, if it really is 79 miles. What with our mistakes as we walk the Great Glen Way who knows how many miles we will really go?!
We began today with the hotel breakfast. I won’t miss them, to be honest, but since I normally don’t even eat breakfast does it really matter that they were sort of ho-hum? Probably not!
We first went to the starting point of the walk to take a photo. A woman eating at the picnic table right in front of us offered to take a photo of us. She was clearly American, but we didn’t really chat so I have no clue where she is from. She, too, was doing the GGW, but she was on her own. I suggested we’d see her on the trail but she said she was a very slow walker.

And then it began. The first mile (plus a little) was what I’d already done, but the rest was new. At Soldier’s Bridge the woman who said she was a slow walker passed us. We never saw here again. Some of the walk was now just walking through the town of Caol (pronounced “Cool”), as cars drove by.
Eventually we did come across the fairly well known beached boat and of course I had to take a photo.

Then it was on to the village of Corpach. It was there, at the Corpach Sea Lock Office, that we could purchase a key that would get us into a few compost toilets on the GGW. Well … so much for that! The sign said they were understaffed and no one was there. Ah well.

At that point we were at the Caledonian Canal and that was to be our companion for the entire rest of the day. That and just a lovely view, beautiful flowers, and an easy going walk for the most part. Because we were on an unpaved road it wasn’t as easy on our feet as, say, a forest path would be, but really it wasn’t bad, and there really was no climb to speak of.


Prior to the eight locks of Neptune’s Staircase the GGW marker told us to take a left. We ignored it because we wanted to first see Neptune’s Staircase. When we went back we saw a different sign for the GGW and took that instead. It took us in a circle, really. Turned out that turning left bit was merely to avoid crossing train tracks (or so we think). We should have just kept walking when we first arrived at Neptune’s Staircase! (Is this confusing? I’m not sure I’m writing clearly, but I am so exhausted my brain isn’t working all that well! Of course it also wasn’t working well when we walked in a circle. Hah!)


Close to the top of the Staircase we saw a place to get lunch, so we stopped, had bowls of lentil soup, and enjoyed sitting for a time.

Then it was back to walking the canal.
I’ve read people complain about the day due to walking the road and “just” being by the canal, but honestly it was just so pretty and I was happy to be there.






We walked by another swing bridge and eventually ended up at the Gairlochy locks and swing bridge.
Then I merely had to learn how to make a phone call to our night’s lodging’s owners. It took a while, but I eventually figured it out (011 44 are required, but the 0 that’s listed before the given phone number should be removed. Who knew? Definitely not this phoneaphobic person!)
Cameron showed up quickly, and drove us to our place. It is just fine and the yard is beautiful! But our luggage transport hadn’t shown up with our luggage. Uh-oh! I called Mickledore and was told they’d get on it right away. Then I remembered our AirTags! I could easily see the luggage never left the place we stayed last night. When Mickledore got back to me they said there had been a “hiccup” and I said I knew that the luggage was still at our hotel. Gotta love those AirTags! It took a bit of time, but the luggage did show up. Whew!
We walked to dinner. I ate too much.

We walked back to our lodging …


We showered. And now I’m fried which is why you are reading the “rest of the story” in one quick paragraph.
Tomorrow is supposed to be a thirteen mile day and is supposed to be a bit harder. I hope we are up for it!