Tag Archives: concerts

A Whole Lot of Walking & An Opera

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We started quite slowly today, which is probably a theme on this trip.

Our first goal was to make sure we knew how to reach Palais Garnier (easy!), and if the restaurant I’d made reservations for was what we wanted (no! — and why is a fast food place asking us to make reservations anyway?).

I’d been warned that the Palais Garnier had a horrible huge ad and false facade on the front … sure enough, it’s still there. Too bad.

Since that fast food restaurant spot wasn’t going to do it for us we walked back to the hotel street and checked out places there. The opera begins at 7:30, so those that opened at 6 or later just seemed too iffy, so we found something that will be open earlier and we’ll just hop on over there. I am guessing we’ll be early enough that it will be easy to get a table. I saw this tile work on the corner nearby … felt like we were back in Portugal!

After heading back to our hotel to put another layer on (the wind was making it colder than I expected), and checking the weather (no rain), we went back out. Our sort of flexible goal was to get to Notre Dame, so we walked in that direction.

We don’t walk fast. It’s more of a casual amble. And we look around constantly. It was a random walk, so if we saw something that caught our eye we’d go there.

Near the Louvre we looked for lunch. Up til then we’d only had coffee, so it was time. We ate tremendously healthy stuff. I can’t say it was fabulous, but it sufficed.

Eventually we wound up at the Christmas market by the Louvre. To me it was more of a carnival than a market: they did have food and drink, but we didn’t get anything. We did love the singing reindeer. That sort of made the visit to the market! Crazy thing is that I used to listen to a guy who did YouTube videos where he sang three or four parts and put it all together and this sounded just like him. I know he’s from France, and I know he’s fluent in English so maybe it actually is …?

And then out we went … and it was sprinkling. WHY do we trust the weather apps? (And why don’t we carry our umbrellas in any case?) Because of that we put a hold on Notre Dame: if the rain got worse we’d be seriously uncomfortable. So we wandered. A lot.

And of course we “discovered” things we’d never seen before! This place: Domaine national du Palais-Royal. We just sort of ended up there.

And roses … in December?!

Getting back to the hotel my watch said I’d walked over 7 miles. My feet said so too. With an early dinner plan I decided a little bit of rest would be good.

We went out to dinner at the place right across the street and had a very simple meal: I had onion soup and Dan had a salad.

Finishing that we went back to the hotel and dressed for the opera.

As is typical we were a bit confused on our directions: I have decided I will never understand this part of Paris! But we got to the opera … and what a place it is!



We had box seats. Not too shabby!

I really enjoyed The Rake’s Progress. The orchestra and singers were super. The great conductor was Susanna Mälkki, someone I really thought was fabulous at SFSymphony. This is our final outing for a performance on this trip. I’m so glad we got to attend so many.

So far no plans for tomorrow, but I suspect we will make our way over to Notre Dame. I’m sorry we can’t go inside, but I gave it my best shot: I checked any time I woke up in the night, and at other times of the day as well. They just never had any I could grab. Rats!

December 7, München

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We started our late morning at Jan & Greg’s room, because they texted us and said there were pastries there. Who can say no to that?

Then it was back to our room to get dressed in the warm stuff, and we all met in the lobby and walked to a closer, smaller, less crowded Christmas market.

We went to a pharmacy to get me something in case I start coughing at tonight’s concert. I actually feel pretty good, and the cold I have is progressing quickly. I just figure it’s better to be prepared: when we were at the Voces8 concert a woman had a horrendous hacking cough that went on throughout a large portion of the concert. (If I get that bad I’ll leave the hall!)

Taking my cough suppresant back to the hotel, we then went out yet again. Our first stop was the concert hall very close to our hotel. Greg knew the hall that had been used was being renovated, but he thought the one they are using instead was nearby.

Um. Nope.

We finally found information on their website and it turns out it’s a two+ mile walk from our hotel. I think we’ll be taking a taxi.

We continued walking, and just took in more sights. We visited a church, and when we came back out we each got just a few snowflakes on us. But that was IT for snow.


Because of how crowded it is here, Greg suggested we attempt to find a lunch spot right then. After two places that were too full we did find one and had a Bavarian meal. This is to be our larger meal of the day since the concert begins at 7:00 and we get our taxi around 6:00.

After lunch more walking.

Greg eventually split off to see a friend, and Jan, Dan, and I were going to head back to the hotel until we heard brass instruments. Going the opposite way, we found them and listened for a brief time.

Then it was back “home” again. And the rain began as we neared the Hilton. Probably because we had read that it wasn’t going to rain.

At the hotel I started typing up this day’s post, and then took a nap. I wanted to be sure I was well rested for the concert.

And rested I was! The four of us caught a taxi to the hall, and of course the person on stage getting ready when we finally went in was the principal oboist for the night. Typical! But then they all have to be off stage (except the basses for some reason) and when the concert begins they file in together to audience applause.

I had always admired Nathalie Stuzmann and I admire her even more now! What a fabulous conductor!

Here is the program:

The location for these performances is rather interesting. When you enter it feels more like an art exhibit or something.

Then you go in to the hall and I was somewhat surprised. But in any case, it was a wonderful concert and the musicians were great!

Following the concert one of us really wanted food so after catching another taxi (which too a while) we found an Italian restaurant that was open and had a spot for us.

Then it was back to Jan & Greg’s for a glass of wine. Well, except not Dan. He’s being a very good boy. Heck he even went to sleep before I finished writing this!

So tomorrow is our last full day here. I suspect we’ll do a lot of walking if the weather is cooperative. So hoping!

And now goodnight!

If it’s Thursday it must be Laundry Day

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Well, maybe not every Thursday, but since we have this one last full day in Heidelberg at Jan & Greg’s we did a wee bit of laundry. One fabulous thing about merino wool, though, is that it doesn’t need washing as frequently as other materials. So our laundry load is much smaller than it would be if we were washing synthetics.

After we had coffee here at the house, and got the laundry into the dryer, we thought we’d visit the smaller Christmas market near the house. Alas, it must only be open on the same days the farmer’s market at the square is open, as nothing was going on at all. So instead we went to a nice coffee place for brunch and coffee. We are going to attempt to make this a two meal day, which is something I always do at home and much prefer on trips as well.

Getting back to the house we finished up with the laundry. Then it was time to say our farewell to the Haupstraße, Altstadt, and larger Christmas market. Tomorrow we have a morning train so today it’s our last chance to go there.

After a very quick look at the market we went back to the house, figured out our transportation, and got ready to head to Mannheim for one final concert.

Dan checked the weather. No rain. So we didn’t take our umbrellas and by the time the street car reached the train station it was … you guessed it! … raining. Ah well. We had hats and rain can’t dampen our spirits even if it does so to our clothes.

We reached Mannheim easily and walked to our restaurant, waited for Jan & Greg, and then had a nice meal.

Then it was a brief jaunt through the Mannheim Christmas market.

From there we went to the concert hall. We had a bit of time still, so we had drinks and pretzels. After that it was into the hall and a concert with Albrecht Mayer and ZKO (easier than typing their name). What a wonderful concert it was! When he played a Bach encore I confess I cried a bit. I was just so very moved. So now I’ve seen and heard to of my faves: VOCES8 and Albrecht Mayer! Next up will be another fave so stay tuned!

Bravi tutti!

Tomorrow all four of us head to another city. You’ll find out where when I post tomorrow!

Friday, November 22

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Adjusting to the time here, are we? Ummmmm … I woke Dan at 8:58 because I think maybe he’d have slept even longer, and I woke up only 30 minutes or so before that. So I guess the answer is that we are slowly adjusting. Having no sun makes it more of a challenge, along with the very short days.

We sat around a bit, and ate some of the persimmon bread Dan made. Greg sent me a video via WhatsApp … it was snowing in Kaiserslautern! No snow here when I looked out the window. Yet.

But then Dan said, “It’s snowing,” and, sure enough, the white stuff was coming down. Not enough to stick, but still, it was pretty.

We finally headed out, looking for the coffee place we went to last time we visited here. Either we’ve forgotten where it is or it no longer exists! Eventually we wound up at a chain bakery spot we’ve been at before. It was fine.

Shortly after that we decided to take the tram to the train station, because we’d been told we might want to see the new area behind it. The train station isn’t exactly lovely.

Trouble was, we couldn’t locate that new area. I guess we are blind! So we walked a very small amount and eventually took the tram back to the Altstadt so we could find lunch. We wound up in a place I had initially made fun of: Frittenwerk. It actually wasn’t bad if you feel like having a thing full of fries, covered in a sauce, with falafels and various other things (or, in Dan’s case, chicken schwarma — and there were other choices as well). And it wasn’t too costly either. But of course I can’t say we ate a truly healthful meal. (Not a great image of my food since I only thought to take a quick pic after I was nearly done!)

At that point we headed back home so we could rest up and get ready for our next adventure: our first concert of the trip!

Taking the tram, we went to Mannheim. Prior to the concert we met up with Greg and Jan, who had come directly from work, and went to dinner. We even did dessert … partly because we didn’t want to get to the venue so early we’d have to stand outside in the cold!

The venue … and quite a line. Actually, two lines, going in from each side.

Finally, it was time … and hello VOCES8! Being a huge fan, I was delighted when Greg had written to say he could get tickets for this concert. It was fabulous. Truly. I didn’t purchase a program, so I’m not sure who the two new faces were: I know Molly Noon has left the group, but Blake Morgan was also missing. I don’t think he’s left, but of course I don’t really know. There was no mention of who was singing (they usually do a song that introduces everyone), so I guess I’ll never know who those two “subs” were. But they all sounded super!