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One Full Day in Coimbra

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Today began in the breakfast room, since this hotel comes with breakfast (I very rarely would pay for breakfast since we don’t need as much as they serve and the prices are usually outrageous).

From there (after getting things from our room), we set out, following a Rick Steves walk. We first went to the Santa Clara Bridge, walking across that.

After the bridge we landed at Largo da Portagem. If we hadn’t eaten we might have been tempted by the pastries, but after our breakfast there was no need. So on we walked.

We continued down a main drag, heading to the Church of Santa Cruz. At some point (I can’t remember exactly when) some female students in their robes came up to ask us something … but (I forgot to write about this last night so I’ll write it now) we shook our heads and walked on.

Soooo … the story from last night: prior to our dinner a young male student came up to us. The story as he told it was as a newbie (well, he didn’t use that word) they had tasks they had to do. One was to sing a song to a tourist and then get us to sing it back. So, while we weren’t all that jazzed, we let him sing some of it to us. “La la la la la” it began, then a few words in Portuguese, then more “la la la la la la la…”. Finally I said, can you show us the words to the song. And there were a LOT more words and NO “la la la”s there. But I immediately noticed one word that was the same as an English world that immediately made me understand what was going on. What we would be singing would be a song that was quite sexual in nature. At that point I said, without letting on that I understood the game, that we really couldn’t do it — that the Portuguese was just to difficult for us. I do wonder if all English speaking tourists would understand, or if he’d get a video of someone saying who-knows-what so he and all his friends could have a good laugh! In any case, when the young women came up to us today we quickly waved them off! Silly kids!

We continued on our way, and arrived at the Cafe Santa Cruz (a former church) and we did decide we had to have a coffee and small treat. (I mean, the Rick Steves’ instructions sort of told us we should.) OH … and it should be noted that the women’s bathroom used to be a confessional. Heh.

Next door was the Church of Santa Cruz (Mosteiro de Santa Cruz), and we opted to pay the 4€ each for a ticket to see more of it. There was a lot to see …

The our friend Rick told us to go on to the Jardim da Manga. I had expected some sort of large garden since I hadn’t read his description yet, but it was not a huge thing, and we too quick photos as we passed by.

Then it was the Mercado Municipal. Turns out much of the market was closed or in the process of closing, so not much to see, but we did get pastel de nata there. Because.

Rick’s next instructions were to take an elevator and the funicular to get closer to the University. Um. Maybe not. Both were not working! So we had a climb to do … but nothing we couldn’t handle!

We arrived at the university courtyard we were at yesterday, and when it was time we went to see King João’s Library. First we saw the prison, then a library before the Baroque Library, and finally the amazing library itself. I took photos of the library before the Baroque Library, but no photography was allowed in the latter. Too bad, but I guess readers will just have to visit it to see what it was like.

We also saw St. Michael’s Chapel. There were people working on a statue that had been taken down, not repainting, but just restoring it from what I understand.

We saw the Royal Palace as well.

And we had more we could see with our ticket but didn’t easily locate them, and I think we were just ready to wander back down the hill because we were feeling dehydrated. We did enter the botanical garden, thinking maybe we could get some refreshments there, but after not quickly finding anything we opted to go back to our hotel and enjoy the rooftop while have drinks, olives, and chips. First there was the downhill walk …

Another church…

Then the refreshments (some non-alcoholic … really!) with a view …

… and then one of us started her blogging while another one napped.

It was nearing dinner, so we readied ourselves for one more trip up a hill in search of food. Since I had the Rick Steves Portugal book I just looked things up there. (Last night’s was on his list as well, but we didn’t know it until we got back to the hotel.) We ended up at a nice tapas place, and it was even quiet enough that I didn’t have to worry about my bad ear! I didn’t bother taking photos … no one needs to keep seeing food photos, right? When we finished we went back to our hotel, and hit the rooftop one last time (or at least we think it’s the last time: I suppose we could end up there for a morning view if we wanted).

Tomorrow we move on to another spot. At this point we don’t know if travel will be by train or by bus. I have tickets for either because we’ve received notices that there will be a train strike. When that happens you can’t tell just which trains will be canceled, so I had been advised to buy bus tickets in case our train was a victim of the strike. We just won’t know until I check the train site in the morning, but my guess is we’ll have to take a bus. Stay tuned for that news. In my effort to be more relaxed about “when things go wrong” I am, so far, not stressing. We’ll see how I am tomorrow!

Ciao!

Another Day, A New City

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Waking this morning, we first packed up (well, okay, truth be told I showered prior to that (I’m assuming the people we would sit near on the train might appreciate that), and then we went for a quick bite on a main street just one block away from our hotel. Then it was back to the hotel to collect our stuff after a check of the room to be sure we left nothing behind besides Dan’s torn pants (someone could, if they were up for it, turn them into a great pair of shorts!). We took an Uber to the train station which took a while: it might have even been faster (but more painful with our luggage) to walk!

When we got on the train and were putting our backpacks up above us the four people in our same row asked if that was all we traveled with. They seemed rather astounded so we chatted about how we pack. The conversation continued in other directions as well, and we learned the couple closest to us were from Napa. Small world, as always. We were still chatting when a woman behind and to my right gave me (well, all of us, I suppose, but I was the one who turned around) a lecture on our being too loud. Having heard that we Americans are just too doggone loud, I was horrified and embarrassed. Later Dan said he really felt the lecture was unnecessary and she could have just shushed us. The truth is we were too loud, but the train hadn’t left yet and I’m fairly sure the conversation would have ended at that point. But me being me I felt just horrible for the whole ride, as I tend to see things as my fault. Sigh.

Otherwise the ride was uneventful (and yes, the conversation completely shut down), and we arrived at our next destination only about 20 minutes late. (Not all trains are timely!) So hello, Coimbra.

Our hotel is basic (and I forgot to take a photo which I so often do. Oh well. I’ll shoot one now that is really a nothing photo.

It says it’s a 3 star but it feels a bit like a 2. And who cares? We sleep here. That is about it. We are only here for two nights, so it’s a very brief stay. Outside is a bit grungy, but we are only a few blocks from the old town, and then a good climb up to the Coimbra University. There is a rooftop view, so we checked that out before heading up the very steep hill.

Once we got settled we went out and aimed toward that university. I love the narrow walkways and alleys, and I marvel at the vehicles that can maneuver through some of them. (Later, when we were walking down from the university, cars would race down the small alley we were in and we had to find a safe spot to stand as they passed by. They are not at all hesitant to speed by us!)



But back to the university. I had read we’d see students in robes, and, sure enough, a student soon passed us in her robe.

We went up to the top to find the Baroque Library we’ll visit tomorrow, and we wandered around a bit. I actually hadn’t expected to get to do much today, so I was glad we were able to get out and explore as much as we did.

We finally headed back down (those photos are also above this paragraph), and looked to see where we might eat. I had seen a street on our way up that looked rather nice — a narrow street with a few different colors of chairs outside so I knew there was more than one restaurant. Sure enough, we landed back on that street and started looking. While looking at the first place another couple were peering in as well. The woman had both Canada and an Ukraine flag pins on her shirt and I told her I liked them. I sort of said, apologetically, that we were from the United States. She then said they were from Seattle. They, like us, are rather horrified by our country right now. Go figure. They also said they were on a Rick Steves tour.

While we didn’t choose the restaurant we saw with them, we did opt for one right down the same alley. They took our reservation for 6:30, but it was only 6:10 so we had to kill some time. That meant a wee bit of walking, and a couple of pieces of chocolate at a chocolate shop nearby that smelled amazing. (Yes, we had to suffer greatly while waiting for dinner.)

Dinner was at Fangas Maior, a restaurant that serves tapas — and it was quite yummy. I think we spent 2 1/2 hours there in our typical fashion. We so frequently outlast other diners. Go figure.

Then it was back to the hotel, with a few photo shots on the way.

Tomorrow we have the University visit to do, but otherwise we’ll just have to see what the day brings.

December 20th Adventures

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When we woke we noticed no clouds in the sky. No complaints from me about that. It was cooler than yesterday, though, so we were back to our down jackets.

Our first goal was to find the meeting spot for tonight’s Tapas Tour. Our tour guide is Andrés Jarabo and he runs Old Town Madrid Tapas and Wine Tour. I’ve read many good reviews of his tour and I’m looking forward to our evening.

The meeting spot was located, and we then moved on. We aimed toward the palace, but also looked for a place to have coffee and a small bite.

Mission accomplished.

Then we walked over to the palace. We weren’t really interested in paying 13€ to go in, so we just walked around part of it.

(Side note: There are people dressed up as various characters and animals. I took no photos because then one is expected to give them money. But it’s all so very strange. I realize this is not just here, but everywhere. Just seemed that there were more of them around the palace.)

We had a pretty nice view near the side of the palace.

As we went away from there, we saw a cathedral and headed in. It had lots of more modern looking stained glass. It had some really beautiful pieces. (And it makes me sad that we Protestants so frequently neglect art. Do we not care about beauty?! We seem to have given up on good music … and art … and, well, I’m rather sad and frustrated about that!)

I have to say, though, that the “candles” that are no longer real candles leave me a bit cold!

We saw the front of the opera house. No, we aren’t going to an opera, though. We have the tapas tour tonight and a Flamenco dinner show tomorrow. I think that’s plenty!

Then it was back to the hotel for a moment, and then up to a different area of Madrid called Malasaña. I had read that it’s less touristy and that locals eat up that way. So up we went. Of course first we had to cross the most popular street, Gran Via. It was very crowded, and clearly is where all the shows are. I saw Lion King, Book of Mormon, and more.

For lunch we found place with a board outside that featured the daily menu. We had read to order that way rather than from the printed menu. Turned out to be far too much food (and we’d been told by Andrés to go light on eating before the tour. Oops!). The server didn’t really speak English and we muddled our way through. I’m so glad people here are patient with us!

Then, again, back to the hotel. This time it was a longer time so we could do some computer stuff (like starting this entry) and nap a bit.

After our bit ‘o rest, we again went out and just rambled.

I have enjoyed seeing the fabric stores, and have shared them with Kelsey since she has started sewing. She would LOVE these stores!

Eventually we aimed toward the meeting spot for our Tapas & Wine tour, and met up with the group. There were eight of us plus Andrés. We were the first there (hey, I’m on oboist and we are always first to arrive!), but shortly after two more (Rose and Taylor) came, and after that it was four more and how frustrating that I can’t remember all of their names. One of the younger men was a student at Santa Clara University, though, so we chatted a bit about that.

This tour … well … what can I say? Um … if you are in Madrid DO IT! Andrés is fabulous. He fills you in on things as you walk. He brings you to great places. We ate and drank some amazing things. (The dessert wine was so darn yummy and I want to see if we can find that before we head home, although that might mean we have to check a bag. OR we do the duty free thing, which is something we’ve never done before. ) I’d go on this tour again in a heartbeat. So thank you SO VERY VERY MUCH, Andrés! I’m so sad that we didn’t do a photo of all of us, but you are THE BEST! (Please, readers, feel free to contact me if you want more info about the tour.)

After our tour, which lasted until something like 10:30 (and began at 7:00), Dan and I walked back to the hotel. We both agreed it was a wonderful evening.

So far we have no plans for the day tomorrow. I guess I need to think about that. Do we go to a museum? Do we wander aimlessly (which I love)? Who knows? Check in tomorrow to find out what we did. 😊

Final Full Day in Montpellier

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I’d say we got up a bit late, but since we have been pretty consistent getting up and moving around 9:00 I guess that’s our normal time at this point! We had our coffee in the room, got ready to go outside, and headed down the stairs.

Our first task of the day was to see how the trek to the train station would be, both for time and, because we have our roller cases, what the road surface was like.

On the way to the station we spotted a Protestant church:

Turns out getting to the station should be a very easy, maybe ten minute max trip. We checked out the station too, although we don’t yet know the track we’ll be on. (I like to know as much as possible as soon as possible, but track numbers don’t appear until shortly before the train arrives.) Our upcoming ride is the longest one we will have, mostly due to the number of stops, I think.

After that we wandered more, as we are wont to do. From the train station we sort of exited the old part of town for a bit. If we had more time in the city I suspect we’d have investigated more of this since there is some interesting architecture in Montpellier.

Eventually we went back into the center, and ended up at a small pop up art exhibit. There we enjoyed coffee and a small snack since we’d not yet eaten.



We knew we wanted to see the Montpellier Cathedral so we went in that general direction, enjoying a variety of sights on the way.

Across from the cathedral is the university, but we didn’t really see any of that.

Unfortunately the cathedral itself was only open for mass since it’s Sunday, but as we walked by we could hear the organ. It wasn’t mass time, so I could only guess that perhaps the organist was practicing. Whatever the musician was playing sounded somewhat modern to my ear, but who knows? I’m not familiar at all with solo organ works. I really wish we could have gone in to listen. From outside it sounded quite powerful. The cathedral itself is quite impressive from the outside, but there aren’t that many places where one can get photos and one side is really inaccessible.

We then ambled around and ended up in the Jardin des Plantes. It was fun to wander, and I’m especially fond of gardens where everything is labeled. I am betting the gardens is amazing in late spring and summer. But even now I really enjoyed it.

Then it was time to head to lunch. Of course that does take us a while, what with finding more things to photograph! Dan realized his battery was running low so we knew we’d have to go back to the hotel to recharge it, but we both knew, too, that we would also need recharging!

Lunch itself was nice and relaxing. And warm for a time, as the sun was shining in on us, as you can see (not a great photo, but in that sun it was the best we could do!) for much of the meal.

(You might shake your head at my goofy food photos, but it does help me remember the day so I try to take them when I remember.)

Then it was back to our hotel. Which is when I starter writing this (as is typical each day). No nap this time, though: I’m hoping I’ll sleep more soundly if I don’t nap.

Once we were ready to go out in search of dinner we donned our incredibly fashionable jackets (NOT) and went out. It really wasn’t terrifically cold, but I’d rather be too warm than too cold, so there you go.

As is typical, we walked a lot to find the right spot for dinner. We didn’t do much photographing (I’m not sure if Dan did any), but of course with an iPhone it’s easy to snap a few things.

We ended up about as close to our hotel as possible at, maybe, the most mediocre restaurant we’ve been at. And yes, I could have done better than to order fish ‘n chips at a restaurant in France! But we just weren’t in the mood to wait until more places opened, and we really just needed to get some food and head back so we could make sure we were mostly packed and ready for tomorrow’s 9:33 train. (This means, for us, that we want to leave here by around 8:30. Not early, I realize, for most folks, but considering how relaxed we’ve been on this trip it’ll probably feel early to us!)

Knock, knock …

… and goodnight!

December 11 in Paris

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We arrived downstairs late enough that the breakfast room was closed. That wasn’t a big deal since there is no way we want to pay 21€ each for a buffet breakfast, but we’d actually thought we’d get the “petite déjeuner”. Ah, but the man there said we could still order that, so we could eat at the hotel. But “petite”?! Heh — that was a lot of pastry for petite if you ask me.

Our hotel is decorated nicely. While we were having our breakfast the staff was having a photo session in front of this tree.

After breakfast it was time to get out and walk. Down the elevator we went. I know you’ll appreciate my red headband. HAH!

We just rambled, and took photos on the way (as usual!).

If I see a window that grabs my eye for some reason, I have to take a shot.

This glass building caught our attention:

We wound up in Le Marais, and found the area where we stayed on a former visit.

More Le Marais, and we even happened upon the street where Dan made one of my favorite photos. We also located a restaurant we loved when we visited earlier (but I forgot to take a photo. Oops!), but I doubt we’ll get there this time.

We ate lunch in Le Marais, and then it was time to journey to Notre Dame. We made our way slowly, taking time, of course, to shoot other things and go inside a church we had taken exterior photos of last time.

We had to stop for this old Medieval house which has been restored.

A few more photos:

Notre Dame was, well, not as thrilling as one might think. There were barriers around it. There were police with huge guns, and there is scaffolding and more around it. There was also a line for what I can only assume were people with reservations to go in (visits are timed), but one confusing sign kind of implied maybe you could get in without a reservation if you had a code. I suspect, though, that it was just a language issue that made it confusing. In any case, we knew we weren’t going in.

Walking over to the other side of the Seine we walked a bit, heading in the direction of our hotel.

I’ve now figured out that the Palais Garnier isn’t the only building with advertising to cover building work. I guess this is the thing places do. I realize it’s ugly to see scaffolding up and all, but I really don’t like these giant commercials.

Continuing our walk and continuing to take photos (btw, I am only using my iPhone so far), I included a few windows that caught my eye … thinking maybe Dan wanted to buy me something new (and perhaps also pay for a complete makeover!).

This poor woman was struggling to walk. Why anyone would want to wear shoes like that in Europe is beyond me. But then wearing them anywhere on planet earth is also beyond me! (But hey, I’m old. And I like comfort. And don’t like sprained ankles.)

Getting back to our hotel was easy since I had put our hotel into the map app and it guided us. (Who knows where we’d wind up otherwise?) Soon we had our feet up and were checking things on our iPads. By then we’d walked over six miles and the break was enjoyed.

Since our dinner reservation (just a minute away!) reservation was for 7:00 and we had two hours to kill we went downstairs for a drink. I mean the elevator poster suggested it (and shows potato chips and olives by the drinks) so why not?! I ordered “Peter’s” since we are at Hotel Saint Petersbourg but was quickly informed that that was no longer an option. Dan ordered a Manhattan, and I then ordered an Old Fashioned. Well … um … maybe hotel drinks aren’t really a good idea! The bartender (if that’s what he really was) had to look up the ingredients. I think it took him at least 10 minutes to make them (and we were the only ones there), and they were the Most Boring Drinks Ever. Live and learn. Sadly we can’t say, “We won’t pay for the Most Boring Drinks Ever” as I don’t believe they’d care. When we were going down for those Most Boring Drinks Ever the reception area was crazy full: it looks like a business group. The people who then went to the bar ordered beers. MUCH better option, I think.

But I ramble about such an insignificant thing. So I will stop now or this blog will become the Most Boring Blog Ever. (Or maybe it already is?!)

Once surviving the Most Boring Drinks Ever (oh dear … I did it again, didn’t I?), we killed more time in our room (yours truly spent time typing some of this) and then walked to our restaurant. It was a very small place, and there weren’t many there when we arrived for our 7:00 reservation, but by the time we left it was full and someone was coming in the door. Dinner was quite nice.

It was not a fancy meal, but felt more like what someone might have at home, really. Until dessert — we couldn’t choose between two so we had to have both. Such a rough life.

We got back to the hotel, and I took a bath. I’m normally not a bath person, but this tub … well … it’s so big and clean and called my name. So I answered. Okay, no name calling. But last night my legs were bugging me in the middle of the night and I am hoping a bath might help me sleep. We shall see.

Tomorrow is our final full day here, and our train leaves in the morning of the 13th so, really, tomorrow IS our final day here. We have plans, but if I told you what they were I’d spoil the story, right? (Hmm. Maybe “you” is only me and of course I already know our plans! Hah!)

So goodnight to all. Or good afternoon. Depends upon where you are!

Up Early & Off We Went

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So yeah … I write “early” and that just means we had to get our breakfast by 8:00. Not really early, I know, but for Dan and me, well, we’ve been taking it awfully easy.

After breakfast we took the Jubilee to Baker and the Bakerloo to Paddington.

I write that because I think it makes it sound like I know what I’m doing now.

Then we had a bit of time before we caught the GWR at Paddington Station.

What a crowded train it was. Fortunately I had reserved seats, but some people had to stand in the aisle the entire hour.



And we were going to … wait for it … wait … wait ….

Okay, don’t wait. We were going to Oxford.

Aside from some slow delays, we had a short ride. We exited the train station and really just followed other people to get where we were going. First up was a bit of lunch since by this time it was near noon.

Then it was more walking and we saw some cool buildings, went into a church, went to the river where we observed a few people punting, and then rambled more, including entering Trinity College. I’m just going to paste photos below and leave it at that.

There had clearly been a wedding somewhere nearby.
More of a wedding party.
There was a tour guide talking at one point, explaining that to get married here one has to get a reservation seven years in advance! Someone had done that and she still hadn’t found her guy, but she still has two years left in which to find him. Heh.
All the doors had these signs and they explain who they beat and in which year.

After Oxford time it was train time again. NOT a crowded train at all, plenty of empty seats, and an easy ride.

Back to the Bakerloo to Baker, and the Jubilee to Southwark. Into our hotel, dropped stuff off, and went downstairs for dinner. I had fish pie, Dan had chicken pie of some sort, and we shared sticky toffee pudding. Surely that must be good for our health.

The Cheshire Cat agrees, no doubt.


One more day in London and then home we go. Do I want to go home? No, not really. But I know it’s time.

Nearing sleepy time ….