December 3, Final Full Day

We weren’t exactly sure what we’d end up doing today. I was fairly certain we’d nixed the Documentation Center option since most of it is closed (and it required a bus ride of, I think, 30 minutes or so), but we had the option of a museum or two.

First, though, coffee and a light breakfast! (And that was after showering and moving in an extremely leisurely manner.)

Leaving the coffee place (a spot called Auckland, in case you are interested: coffee was good and we shared avocado bread and a salad with egg slices) …

… we decided we would check out one of the recommended churches. When we got to St. Lorenz we saw there would be an organ recital at 12:15, so we hung out for a fair amount of time in order to hear one of the largest organs in the world. The organist wasn’t exactly top notch, but it was great to hear the instrument! While the church was originally Catholic it became Protestant during the Reformation. I was surprised to see all the Catholic work still in the church after seeing so many in Scotland that had destroyed anything that hinted at Catholicism.

From there we walked over to Trödelstuben restaurant (the one we tried for last night). What a place it is. I can’t imagine working there: you have to navigate a stairway that twists a bit and it’s narrow. The kitchen is on the second floor, which is where we sat, but there is also a downstairs.

We both had potato soup and some garlic-cheese bread. It was just right for this overcast and cloudy day.

Walking, we saw a couple getting their photo taken in front of the trees. So why not?

Then we walked to another church, Frauenkirche — Church of Our Lady Nürnberg. This one remained Catholic after the Reformation, but they do acknowledge that it became a Catholic Church after a progrom in, I think, 1349, when a Jewish synagogue was burned down (there is a Star of David in the church somewhere, but we looked and didn’t find it). It has quite a bit of a modern look, even while having a lot of the old in it. We didn’t stay all that long, as there wasn’t much opportunity to wander and right after I snapped this shot Dan told me no photos were allowed. Oops! (Everyone, it seemed, was taking iPhone photos, and the person watching over things didn’t say a word, so I doubt it’s much of a big deal.)

Finally we went to St. Sebald’s (Sebalduskirche). That was my favorite of the three.

This little area was dedicated to children who had died. People could take a star and write a child’s name on it and hang it on the tree.

More from the church:

Then it was time for a treat, of course. We went out of the church to find it raining very lightly on this day when the weather app said there was 0% chance of rain. Ah well!

Going to the Christmas market I did a very tiny bit of shopping, and then we found a place that would satisfy both of us: I had a macaroon and Dan had lebkuchen.

From there it was back to the hotel for a bit. My eyes were so tired! I set my alarm so I wouldn’t sleep too long, but I simply had to rest.

After a bit of rest time, we went down to the lobby because, Dan having his great status and all, we were given a voucher for a free drink and snack. It said it included the high end wine, beer, or drink of our choice. But of course there was the disclaimer “at the discretion of the hotel”. In truth I got whatever red wine they were serving at the time, Dan got a beer, and there were no snacks at all. But who is going to complain about free stuff … right?

Then we went back up to our room to dress for the cold, but no rain jackets since the chance of rain was 1%.

I’m sure you can guess what happened while we were out, yes?

Yes, we got wet.

We went up some stairs for a view of the market:

At the same spot we heard a choir we now heard a brass band.


We were looking for pretzels because I had read that one must get a pretzel while here. But where?! We looked and looked. Finally we saw a young woman with one so we asked her (she and the man with her were from the states … Iowa or some such place). She pointed to a stand and said, “But I got the last one!” We looked and looked, but never did find any. Ah well. I think we’ll survive.

We finally went back toward our hotel and the first Christmas market that we had originally thought was the market.

We had some flammkuchen and then a last Nürnberg gluhwein, but we couldn’t use our souvenir cups up at the closer market. Such is life. We suffer. We suffer in silence. (Name that musical.)


Now back in our room we already finished up the remainder of the marzipan we purchased yesterday and I’m having a cup of chamomile tea. Soon it will be bedtime. already my eyes are feeling awfully heavy.

Tomorrow our train doesn’t leave until after noon, so we have a good amount of time to just relax, maybe go out for a bit, and then walk to the train station.

Monday, December 2

We began rather slowly today: it had been raining last night, and it was cold enough we decided that maybe taking our time would be a fine idea. But eventually one does have to just brave the cold.

One idea for today was the Documentation Center. Alas, it is currently under renovation and much is closed. I’m not sure we’ll get there this time. I suppose that means we’ll have to return sometime.

We went in the direction of the first Christmas market nearby, and then continued on, looking for a place to get coffee. Eventually we ended up at the entrance to the walled city that I remembered from the time we spent about one hour here, between wherever we came from and Bayreuth. Finally we found a coffee place that had a table for us to sit at. No way did we want to have to be outside!

Coffee and “we aren’t going to eat much” were obtained. Hah!

Then we continued our walking …

… ending up at the castle. It was breezy and quite cold, but we managed to stay there for a bit of time. Dan had his camera and was making photos while I just took my iPhone. I just haven’t had any interest in using the Fuji on this trip, and I think for travel and iPhone really does suffice. My Fuji is better for my flower photography at home. Somehow on vacation I don’t want the distraction.

After the castle we went back down to the big market, taking a bit of a side trip to investigate more. We even saw where the World Wide Web was stored! (C’mon, you know you think I’m hysterical.)

Then it was Kartoffelpuffer. Those are fried potatoes (kind of like has browns but not) and while I had applesauce last time it was cranberry for me this time, and Dan had the garlic sauce, I think.

We knew we wanted something a bit more after that, so we had another meal of the three little sausages, sauerkraut, bread, and mustard. Yep, tasty today, like it was yesterday. Both the potatoes and the sausages were eaten standing up outside, which is how most everything is devoured at the markets. Somehow the cold isn’t as bothersome when one is eating!

We ambled more, had some gluhwein, and bought some candied mixed nuts, which appear to be another popular thing here.

Oh … about the gluhwein. When you buy a small cup of it you are charged a fee for the cup. You can choose to keep it or return it and get your money back. Each town has their own cup design. I was tempted by the Heidelberg cups but was strong enough to resist keeping them. (We have too many cups at home as it is!) But this time we opted to not return them. The next stand we visited for a drink explained that we trade in our used cups and get fresh ones and aren’t charged another fee, so we opted to do that with these. Today we again exchanged last night’s second cup for new ones. Kind of handy … and yes, we’ll be taking home these souvenir cups. Just because I was strong in Heidelberg doesn’t mean I’m continuously strong! (After drinking our drinks we both attach our cups to our bags.)


Finally, we decided it was rest time (and iPad time), so we went back to the hotel. I fell asleep (no surprise since I’m still not sleeping at night) … hope I sleep at least a bit later, but we’ll see. I know a nap is not the best thing for insomnia.

Did I mention our hotel is at the border of the red light district? Sigh. We are avoiding going that direction. Don’t want to see it if I can help it!

When it was time to go out again we researched a spot for dinner: we didn’t really feel like a Christmas market dinner. Dan found a really nice place so we walked there: it was in a quieter area, right near a canal (yes, canals in Nürnberg!). In front of the door was a sign saying no availability for seating. In fact there were two signs. But of course we still had to ask (as did several groups after us). I went back and asked about tomorrow evening. Nope. So we will go there at 1:00 tomorrow. It just looked too nice to miss and reviews are excellent.

Photo from near the restaurant:

From there we walked to another place I saw, but it was full as well. And another. Meh … looked like Christmas market food.

Saw some horses …

… saw musicians, too! (Hah!) These tiny things are very expensive!

Finally Dan suggested one he’d read reviews from earlier. And yes, we could get in! We weren’t seated in the large room where loads of people were, or the smaller, quieter room that also appeared full at the moment. Instead we were in a side section that had higher chairs (like bar height) and only had two tables. FINE by me … I could hear! Plus we saw the kitchen, and were able to watch them work (very quickly!), hear them sing a few times, and watch the servers who sometimes looked to be arguing but who knows? I ordered carp and Dan, doing the “when in Rome thing” ordered the pork. I think mine was better.

When we left the restaurant we were greeted by rain. Well how ‘bout that? We both can now be glad we brought our rain jackets. We bought a new kind of drink for us, and I’d explain how it’s made but I really didn’t fully understand it. Something about soaking cones in rum and them pouring that into something … blah blah blah … patty has brain freeze and can’t really remember. But it was not as sweet as gluhwein and definitely better than the “winter warmer” I had last night.

We walked by more stands and Dan seemed to think I would want some marzipan.

Dan wasn’t wrong.

After buying that, though, we knew we needed to get back. The rain was starting to threaten us a bit more. So “home” we went.

Chamomile tea was made (for me) and we both had a bit of the marzipan.

Tomorrow … well … maybe a museum? (They are closed on Mondays.) We shall see. I’m always happy just to wander. I’m good at that!